Блюхера
Route Description: СВ стене
SSummitMateDescription of the first ascent of Peak Blücher (4720 m) via the North-East Face in Tian-Shan, with a difficulty rating of 5A, completed in August 1977.
Ascent of Pik Blyukhera via the Northeast Face
I. CLIMBING CLASSIFICATION: Technical 2. CLIMBING REGION: Tian Shan, Terskey Ala-Too 3. SUMMIT: Pik Blyukhera (4720 m) via NE face 4. CLAIMED DIFFICULTY CATEGORY: 5A 4A 5. ROUTE CHARACTERISTICS: elevation gain — 600 m average steepness — 70° section lengths: 1st cat. diff. — 30 m, 2nd — 170 m, 3rd — 160 m, 4th — 250 m, 5th — 120 m, 6th — 10 m. 6. PITS SET:
Route Description: В ребру с севера
SSummitMateA technical ascent description of Peak Blücher (4720) via the East Counterforce, a 4A grade route, completed by the Zenit Sports Society team in 1976.
Ascent Passport
I. Ascent Class 2. Ascent Area 3. Ascent Route 4. Ascent Characteristics 5. Pitons Driven: 6. Number of Movement Hours 7. Number of Overnight Stays and Their Characteristics 8. Team Name 9. Full Name of Team Leader, Participants, and Their Qualification
Route Description: В ребру с севера
SSummitMate### Traversing Blyukher and Karbyshev Peaks in the Central Tian Shan #### Category: 5B difficulty level Detailed route description and team ascent documentation.
PASSPORT
- Class — traverses
- Central Tien-Shan, Karakol gorge
- Traverse of Peak Blyukhera (4720 m) — Peak Karbysheva (4700 m) with ascent through the center of the bastion
- Proposed — 5B cat. diff., 2nd passage variant
- Height difference: 700 m, length — 1370 m. Length of sections with 5–6 cat. diff. — 500 m. Average steepness of main sections 62° /14650-43001 Of which 6 cat. diff. //,-°/
- Pitons driven:
Route Description: С стене и С ребру
SSummitMateAscent via the North wall and North ridge of Pik Pamyati Blyukhera (4720 m) in the Terskey-Alatoo range, grade 5B.
I. Climbing category: Technical 2. Climbing area: Tian Shan, Terskey-Alatau ridge 3. Peak, its height, and ascent route: Pik Pamyati Blyukhera, 4720 m, via the North face and North ridge 4. Proposed difficulty category: 5B 5. Route characteristics: elevation gain 870 m, average slope 63°, average slope of the wall section 71°, length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category 225 m 6. Pitons driven:
| for belay | for artificial holds | |
|---|---|---|
| rock | 69 | 8 |
Route Description: С стене и С ребру
SSummitMateReport on the ascent to **Peak Blücher** (4850 m) in the Central **Tian Shan** via the north face and north edge, category 5B difficulty in 1998.
Ascent Passport
Ascent class Technical Ascent area Central Tian Shan Peak, its height Peak Bliukhera, 4850 m Ascent route via N face and N ridge Difficulty category 5B Height difference 750 m Average slope 65° Pitons driven:
- rock 10+3