Слоненок

Peak4,797 m
SummitMateSSummitMate
November 15, 2024
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Climbing passport for Slonionok peak (4718 m) in Teskey Ala-Too range, category 4B difficulty level, technically challenging ascent with traverse.

Ascent Passport

  1. Ascent category — technical
  2. Ascent area: Tian Shan range, Teskey Ala-Too.
  3. Slonenok peak, 4718 m, traverse from East to West, 45 km traverse.
  4. Estimated category of difficulty: 4B (3 with passage).
  5. Route characteristics: length of sections with 4–5 category of difficulty — 680 m, average steepness of the route — 60°.
  6. Pitons hammered for belay — 61, of which:
    • rock pitons — 28,
    • protection gear — 7,
    • ice screws — 26.
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Description of a category 5A complexity route to Slonionok peak (4720 m) via the center of the northwest wall in the Central Tien Shan.

ASCENT DOCUMENT

  1. Ascent classification — technical, route — combined.
  2. Ascent area, ridge — Central Tien-Shan, Terskey Ala-Too ridge.
  3. Peak, its height, ascent route — p. Slonenok, 4720 m, route through the center of the north-west wall.
  4. Estimated category of difficulty — 5A.
  5. Route characteristics: height difference — 900 m, length of sections with 5th cat. diff. — 260 m, average steepness — 55°
  6. Pitons hammered in: rock: for belay — 57 for creating TAE — 1
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Description of the first ascent of Slonionok peak via the north-west buttress, difficulty category 5B, with a detailed route description and technical details.

Ascent Passport

on Mt. Slonionok via the NW buttress (first ascent)

  1. Ascent class
  2. Ascent area
  3. Peak, its height, route
  4. Estimated difficulty category
  5. Route characteristics: height difference, length of sections with 5–6 difficulty grade, average steepness
  6. Number of pitons driven for belaying, for creating belay stations
  7. Number of climbing hours
  8. Number of overnight stays and their characteristics
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Description of the ascent route to the peak Slonionok (4726 m) via the Northwest Counterfort, rated as Category 5B complexity.

Ascent Passport

  1. Ascent class — technical.
  2. Ascent area — Tian Shan, Terskey Ala-Too ridge.
  3. Summit — Slonënok peak, height — 4726 m, ascent route — Northwest counterfort.
  4. Proposed complexity category — 5B.
  5. Route characteristics: height difference — 1160 m, average steepness — 72°, section lengths:
    • 2nd difficulty category — 260 m.
    • 3rd difficulty category — 17 m.
    • 4th difficulty category — 111 m.
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