Energia

The first ascent by a team of climbers to the peak "Energiya" via the western wall (category 5B difficulty) in the Fann Mountains in 1967

REPORT ON THE FIRST ASCENT BY THE TEAM OF ALPINISM SECTION NOVOSIBIRSK REGIONAL COUNCIL SPORTS SOCIETY «SPARTAK» TO THE SUMMIT ENERGY VIA THE WESTERN FACE CATEGORY 5B DIFFICULTY (APPROX.) IN ACCOUNT OF CHAMPIONSHIP CS SSS «SPARTAK» OF 1967 IN ALPINISM IN THE CLASS OF ALTITUDE-TECHNICAL ASCENTS

### Route Description: Ascent to Energia Peak (5100m) via the North-Eastern Face A detailed guide on climbing Energia Peak (5100m) using the North-Eastern face route, categorized as Category III-IV difficulty, located in the Fann Mountains. The description includes a thorough breakdown of the route path and provides valuable recommendations for climbers.

Ascent Passport Ascent class — technically challenging. Ascent area — Fann Mountains. Ascent route, peak, its height — p. Energiya, 5100 m, Northeast wall. Estimated difficulty category — 5B. Route characteristics: height difference — 1100 m. route length — 4450 m. length of 5th difficulty category sections — 770 m. average steepness — 65–70°

Report on the ascent of Pik Energia via the Eastern Ridge, grade 4A, with a description of the route and details of the approach and descent.

Energy. 4A. Via the Eastern Ridge. Table of Contents From the author: Passage log Route in UIAA symbols Approach description R0–R1. Start from the overnight stay on the Kaznok Pass — 7:00 R1–R2. At station R2 — 11:00 R2–R3 R3–R4

Description of the ascent route to the summit "Energiya" (5125 m) via the eastern ridge in the Fann Mountains, difficulty category 4A.

Class of ascent: technical. Area of ascent: Fan Mountains. Peak, ascent route: p. "Energiya" (5105 m), via the eastern ridge. Estimated difficulty category: 4A. Characteristics of the route. Height difference: 1063 m. Length of sections with 5th category difficulty: 55 m. Total length of the ridge horizontally: 2800 m. The route consists of three sections of varying difficulty: a) ridge 2–3 cat. diff. — average steepness 10°, horizontal length 1900 m; b) ascent 4–5 cat. diff. — average steepness 50°, horizontal length 500 m; c) pre-summit ridge 3 cat. diff. — average steepness 30°, horizontal length 400 m. 26 rock pitons were hammered on the route, 20 chocks were used — all for belays.