Борцов за Мир

### Description of the First Ascent of Borzov za Mir Peak (4100 m) via the center of the south face, accomplished by a group of climbers in 1980, with a detailed analysis of the route and its complexity.

To the head coach of mountaineering of the USSR Sports Committee, Comrade SHAATAEV V.N. To the chairman of the classification commission of the FAM USSR, Comrade PETRASHKO G.A. We are submitting a report on the ascent of v. Borzov za mir via the center of the southern wall, made on July 13, 1980, by a group of climbers from al "Artuch" led by Bezverkhy A.I. Conclusion on the route: The ascent of v. Borzov za mir, 4100 m, via the center of the S wall is a first ascent. The route is of a rocky nature and corresponds to the 4A category of complexity by its technical difficulty. We request that this report be reviewed and the route of ascent to v. Borzov za mir via the center of the southern wall be classified. Head of KSP in the Fann Mountains T. MUMDJI November 13, 1980. Leader A. Bezverkhy + 4 people.

Climbing route description to the summit Bortsy za Mir (4100 m) in the Fann Mountains via the South face, category 3B.

ASCENT DOCUMENT Ascent category — technical ascent category Ascent region — Fann Mountains, spur of the Zeravshan Range Peak Borzov za Mir a) elevation — 4100 m b) ascent route — via the South face Expected category of difficulty — 3B Route characteristics: a) elevation gain — 300 m

Description of the ascent route to "Borci za mir" summit via the southern spur of the western ridge, category of difficulty.

www.fanyvertcial.ru P. Borcov za mir, ZA, South buttress of the West ridge (V. Ivchik route, 77) Approach to the route via the South buttress of the West ridge. From the Alaudin pass, go right-down in the direction of the West ridge of Borcov za mir peak. Then scree and grassy slopes lead to the base of the South buttress of the West ridge. The route starts at the base of the most prominent buttress. The start of the route is from the gendarme. oz. B. Apaudinskoe P. Borcov za mir via South buttress of the West ridge, cat. diff. R6 80 m, 30–40°, 3–2+ R5 20 m, 50°, + Gendarme R4 40 m, 60°, 4- R3 80 m, 45–55°, 3–3+

Description of the ascent route to the summit Borts za Mir (3800 m) via the northwestern spur of the western ridge, category 2B, in the Fann Mountains.

Ascent Passport Ascent class: rock climbing. Ascent area: Zarafshan Range, Fann Mountains. Peak, its height, ascent route: peak Bortsov za Mir, 3800 m, via the northwestern spur of the western ridge. Proposed difficulty category: 2B. Route characteristics: elevation gain — 400 m (3400–3800 m); total route length — 1400 m; average steepness of key sections — 60°; Number of pitons (including chocks):

### Description of the 2B category complexity route to the Borcy za mir peak via the North wall Includes details on the approach and key elements of the ascent.

P. Bortsov za Mir, 2B, via the North face (N. Morev's route, 79) 1 – via the East ridge, cat. 2A 2 – via the North face, cat. 2B Approach to the North face route. From the Alaudin pass, go right and down, in the direction of the East ridge of Bortsov za Mir peak; further scree and grassy slopes lead under the North walls of the East ridge. The route starts at the base of the most prominent buttress. The start of the route is a gendarme with a white spot. Big Alaudin lake Route sections R0 – start of the route. R1: 150 m, 40°.

Description of the route category 2A complexity via the Eastern ridge of the peak "P. Bortzovaya za mir" with the approach from Alaudinskoye saddle.

P. Bortsov za Mir, 2A, via East Ridge (V. Egorov's itinerary, 67) 1 — via East Ridge, cat. 2A; 2 — via North Face, cat. 2B. Route sections description (for cat. 2A via East Ridge): R1: 150 m, 40°. R2: 90 m, 65°. R3: 40 m, 60°, cat. 2. R4: 80 m, 60°, cat. 3. R5: 80 m, 10°, cat. 1. Approach to the route via North Face. From Alaudin pass go down to the right in the direction of the East Ridge of Bortsov za Mir peak; further screes and grassy slopes lead under the North Face of the East Ridge. The route starts at the base of the most prominent buttress. The start of the route is a gendarme with a white spot. Bol. Alaudinskoe Lake