Машалян

Peak0
SummitMateSSummitMate
November 15, 2024
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### First Ascent of Mashalyan peak (4240 m) via the right part of the South wall, 6B difficulty category, as part of the 1985 Asia Championship.

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent category — first ascent within the framework of the Asia Championship. 2. Ascent area — Pamiro-Alai ridge, Alai range. 3. Peak, its height, ascent route — Mashalyan 4240 m via the right part of the South Face. 4. Proposed difficulty category — 6B. 5. Route characteristics: total height difference 1340 m, wall section height difference 920 m, length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category 965 m, average steepness 67°. 6. Pitons driven: for belaying: rock 83, ice —, bolt —, protection elements 58; for creating intermediate belay points: rock 38, ice —, bolt —, protection elements 71, "skyhooks" 14, "friends" 16, crooked-leg ladders, crooked legs 9. 7. Total climbing hours 35 hours. 8. Number of overnight stays and their characteristics — four: first — comfortable, lying down; second — uncomfortable, sitting in a tent; third — semi-reclined, somewhat uncomfortable; fourth — after the summit on descent, comfortable, lying down.

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Climbing Certificate for Mt. Mashalyan via the "Rusty Wall", Category 5B difficulty, 1020 m elevation gain, 890 m of rock terrain, average slope 70°.

Ascent Passport

I. Class: rock 2. Ascent area: Pamir-Alay, Alay Ridge 3. Ascent route: Mashalyan peak via South wall 4. Difficulty category: 5B 5. Route characteristics: height difference: 1020 m length of sections 5–6 difficulty cat.: 890 m average steepness: 70°

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### Climbing route description to Mashlyan peak via SE wall - Category of difficulty - Length 1370 m - Height difference 1020 m - Average slope 85°

ASCENT PASS

  1. Class: rock
  2. Climbing area: Pamir-Alai, Alai Ridge
  3. Ascent route: Mashalyan peak via South face
  4. Difficulty category: 5B (2nd)
  5. Route characteristics:
    • elevation gain: 1020 m
    • length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category: 910 m
    • average steepness: 65°
  6. Pitons used:
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Report on the ascent to Mashalyang peak via the South wall, category 5B difficulty, third ascent.

Report

on the ascent to Mashalyan peak via the South wall, category 5B (third ascent)

SKA UralVO Team:

  1. Mikhailov A.N. — team leader and coach, Master of Sports
  2. Evsyukov G.K. — deputy leader, Master of Sports
  3. Povolotsky V.Yu. — participant, Candidate for Master of Sports
  4. Kharitonov A.P. — participant, Candidate for Master of Sports

Table

of the main characteristics of the ascent route to Mashalyan peak via the South wall

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