Oktjabrski Peak
Route Description: В стене
SSummitMateAscent to Peak Oktyabrsky 6780 m via the east face from Oktyabrsky Glacier in 1970 by the team of CS SSO "Gantiadi".
To the championship of the country in the class of high-altitude and technical ascents.
Report
On the ascent of Peak Oktyabrsky 6780 m via the eastern wall from the Oktyabrsky glacier.
Team of the Central Council of the Gantiadi Sports Society
TBILISI
1970
List of participants of the 1970 USSR Alpine Championship of the Central Council of the Gantiadi Sports Society team
| №№ | Full Name | Year of Birth | Position in Expedition | Rank | Primary Occupation (Profession) | Party Membership | Nationality | Home Address | a) Best Ascent and Year. b) Best Ascents over the Last 2 Years. |
|---|
Route Description: Ю склону
SSummitMateAscent record of Peak Oktyabrsky and Lenin via traverse along the southern slope, category of complexity 5B, Pamir, 1984.
Ascent Passport
- Ascent class — snow and ice climb.
- Ascent region — Pamir.
- Traverse of peaks p. Oktyabrsky — P. Lenin with ascent to p. Oktyabrsky Yuzhny via the South slope.
- Difficulty category — 5B (approximately).
- Route characteristics (first ascent section):
- Total height difference — 1680 m
- Length of sections with 5th category difficulty — 790 m
- Average steepness — 45°
- Pitons used:
Route Description: В стене
SSummitMateDescription of the ascent route to the summit along the northwestern ridge, complexity category 4.5.5.
(37)
(38)
4.5.5
Route Description: З ребру, траверс
SSummitMateTraverse of Peak Oktyabrsky — Peak Lenin with ascent to Peak Oktyabrsky via the western edge, made by the combined team of the CSKA in 1964.
Report
On the high-altitude traverse of Peak Oktyabrsky – Peak Lenin, with the ascent to Peak Oktyabrsky via the western edge, accomplished by the combined team of CSKA. Dedicated to the 30th anniversary of the ascent by the Red Army team to Peak Lenin in 1934. The Trans-Alai Range, discovered in 1871 by the renowned explorer of Central Asia, A.P. Fedchenko, is one of the highest mountain ranges in the Pamir region. The highest part of the range is located in its center and forms a chain of peaks: Peak Lenin – 7134 m, Peak 6852 m, Peak Dzerzhinsky, Peak Kyzyl-Agyn, Peak Edinstva, and others. Peak Lenin is the third highest peak in the Soviet Union, the most popular "seven-thousander," and a high-altitude mountaineering stadium of the country. To the east of Peak Lenin, the Trans-Alai Range turns south and, in the area of Peak Edinstva, divides into two. The main range continues eastward, and a powerful, long Zulumart range with its highest point, Peak Oktyabrsky (6780 m), branches off to the south. The chain of peaks from Peak Oktyabrsky to Krylenko Pass was named "Mountains of Barricades" by N.V. Krylenko in 1928, which now includes: Oktyabrsky Peaks, Peak Edinstva, Peak 6350 m, and Peak 6104 m. Peak Oktyabrsky is a massif with three peaks: the South Peak, with an elevation of about 6750 m (this is the peak visible from the Kara-Jilgа valley), the Main Peak with an elevation of 6780 m, and the North Peak with an elevation of about 2270 m. The elevation differences between the peaks reach 100–120 meters. From Krylenko Pass to the south descends the powerful B. Sauk-Dara glacier, which is framed by steep slopes and walls of the surrounding peaks.