Peak Voenno-Morskogo Flota

163. Peak Voenno-Morskogo Flota via the Western Ridge (Category 1B route, A. Zyuzin, B. Ginzburg, A. Matskevich, S. Naryshkin, L. Khodyush, July 9, 1939).

From the "Adylsu" alpine camp, follow the highway down the Baksan valley to the village of Kurmy. From the village, head right and up along a good path on the left bank of the Kurmychi river, past a waterfall and a meadow on a moraine. Then cross to the right bank of the river and follow it to the tongue of the Kurmychi glacier. Staying on the right side of the glacier, ascend the icefall to the snow plateau of the glacier. Above the icefall, turn right and exit onto the scree of the moraine under the southeastern slopes of Peak Aviatsii. Set up a base camp on the scree. Cross the Kurmychi glacier from the scree to the left (northeast) towards the saddle of the Western ridge of Peak VMF, located between this peak and a gendarme

Central Caucasus, Adylsky Ridge

Peak VMF

FIRST ASCENT VIA THE EAST RIDGE Group composition: V.A. Kazanovich, S.G. Porushky, S.P. Zhigir, S.A. Volyanyuk, M.G. Nikulin, V.I. Melnikov. 1980 From the "Djailyk" tourist camp:

• along the suspension road, on the left moraine.
• at the top, transition to the right moraine.
• on the right moraine towards the rocky outcrop between the moraines of the Jalovchat glacier and the Northern Koyavgan glacier.
• under the rocky outcrop, traverse upwards to the right onto the scree.

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent classification: technical. 2. Ascent area: Central Caucasus, Adyrly Range. 3. Ascent route: p. BMF 3900 m via the eastern ridge — first ascent. 4. Expected difficulty category: 2B category of difficulty. 5. Ascent characteristics: height difference 900 m; average slope 50°. 6. Number of pitons driven: rock pitons 4. 7. Number of walking hours: 5 hours. 8. Group name: sports group of the "Jailyk" alpine camp. 9. Full name of the leader, participants, and their qualifications:

Report

ON THE ASCENT TO THE SUMMIT "VMF" VIA THE EASTERN RIDGE, CATEGORY 2B BY THE TEAM OF ALPCLUB "POLITECHNIK" "POLITECH-4" FROM AUGUST 4, 2022 TO AUGUST 4, 2022

I. Ascent Passport

№ п.п.	1. General Information
1.1	Full Name, Sports Rank of the Leader	Gerus Denis Anatolyevich, 1st sports rank
1.2	Full Name, Sports Rank of the Participants	Latyshenko Kondrat Olegovich, 3rd rank; Smirnova Alena Vitalyevna, 3rd rank; Fominykh Mikhail Sergeyevich, 3rd rank

Navy Route, Category 2B

Route Description

From the Dzhalyk alpine camp along the suspension road, follow the left moraine. At the top, transition to the right moraine. Along the right moraine towards the rocky outcrop between the moraines of the Dzhalovchat Glacier and the Severny Koyavgan Glacier. Below the rocky outcrop, traverse upwards to the right onto the scree. Follow the scree to the lake. Camping by the lake (2 hours 30 minutes from the base). From the lake, head to the left moraine of the Dzhalovchat Glacier and, leaving the southern buttress of the eastern ridge to the right, ascend the snowfield to the Dzhalovchat Pass (40 minutes from the lake). Along the right edge of the Kurmychi Glacier, reach a broad snow saddle (40 minutes from the pass).

• The large gendarme (located at the junction of the Eastern and Western ridges) remains on the right.
• Camping is possible on the saddle below the summit tower. From the saddle, ascend the summit tower on its left side, emerging onto a narrow ridge. Follow the narrow ridge to the summit. A two-meter wall is overcome directly. The ascent up the tower takes about 1.5 hours (40 minutes). Total time is around 4 hours.