Корона Средний

Ice section length: 680 m Ice slope angle: 55–60 degrees 80 m traverse across a snow slope, then a couloir with broken terrain 120 m long, angle 40–50 degrees. The climbing is not difficult, but delicate, as the terrain is heavily broken and protection is unreliable. In winter the couloir is filled with snow - deep trail breaking uphill. Then turn left onto rock. Grade III rock 90 m, angle 50–60 degrees. Protection on passive gear, belay stations on ledges. The climbing is not difficult, but delicate, as the terrain is broken. Move from the couloir right to left in the direction of the summit. Descent via rappel bolts to the upper snowfield of the Korona Glacier, below the bergschrund, and then on foot to the Korona hut.

In autumn 2025, two ice streams formed on the northern wall of Pik Korona. The first ascent of the right stream (rated 5A in the Russian classification) was made by Aleksandr Parfyonov's team in early 2026. The first ascent of the left stream was made by Konstantin Markevich with Aleksey Pototskiy in the second half of March 2026. Further, according to Aleksey: Last year was very hot in July. And as a result of this circumstance, two new routes formed on the northern wall of Pik Korona. The charm of these routes is that this year or next, such conditions may not happen, and these routes may not exist. But while they are there - we have to climb 😁 And we did. One route was climbed by Parfyonov with a partner in February, and the second one - Kostya Markevich and I last week. Honest 5B and this is the coolest ice in the area. The icicle itself is 170 m of 87-degree lace cascade ice. And before that, there's another 30 meters of A3 ice climbing. The lower part is 450 m of gentle ice at 55-70 degrees. Work on the route

Description of the route to Peak Kosmonavtov, including technical information and photographs of key stages of the ascent.

Fig. 6. Fig. 7. Path to Pik Kosmonavtov

A description of the ascent route to the summit Svobodnaya Korea, located in the mountains of Kabardino-Balkaria, with details of the approach and technical features of the climb.

Fig. 1. Ascent to p. Svobodnaya Korea (general view)

Report on the first ascent of a Category 6A route on the Southwest Face of Corona Peak (4860 m) in Tian Shan.

Report On the first ascent to the peak Korona, 5th Tower, 4860 m, via the right part of the southwest wall, presumably 6A category of difficulty, by the team of "SCA Zelenograd" (Moscow) and "ROO FASO" (Ekaterinburg) from August 26 to August 28, 2013. Ascent Passport Class — Technical. Tian-Shan, Kyrgyz Range, Ak-Sai valley. Peak Korona, 5th Tower, 4860 m, via the right part of the SW wall. Proposed category of difficulty — 6A. First ascent. Route type — Rock climbing. Route characteristics: | — Height difference of the route | — 725 m |

A new 6A route on the 5th tower of the Crown in Ala-Archa, climbed by a team of two climbers in 3 days using free climbing and aid techniques.

New route on the 5th Tower of Corona in Ala-Archa 6A, 950 m, fr 6c, A2 SW wall of the 5th Tower of Corona with routes. (Glukhovtsev's route is not correctly marked — it goes right in the middle part to the couloir) Few people know that at the end of August, a new route appeared on the SW wall of the 5th Tower of Corona in Ala-Archa. The route was climbed by a team of two: Syzshchikov Anatoly (Yekaterinburg) and Markevich Konstantin («SCA Zelenograd», Moscow). Since the guys are very modest, I'll describe this ascent for them. In winter 2009, Misha Borich and I tried to climb it in a light style, without a platform, bolts, and preliminary processing, but were blown away after 3 days (http://mountain.ru/article/articledisplay1.php?articleid=4401, our attempt). When Tolik went to Archa for gathering, he asked for some interesting route to be suggested. And here is the result. I'll simply relay the information from the report. Ascent passport Class — technical. Tian-Shan, Kyrgyz ridge, Ak-Sai gorge. Corona peak, 5th Tower, 4860 m, right part of SW wall.

Description of the first ascent of a combined route of 4B category of difficulty to the summit of Bailiang-Bashi (4700 m) in the North Tien Shan.

PUBLIC ORGANIZATION 8–7.229 (4А) Tyumen Regional Federation of Alpinism Tyumen, phone: 89222621340 Web: www.tyumen-alp.ru, E-mail: [email protected] Outgoing letter dated October 1, 2008, No. 56 Dear colleagues! We ask you to review and take into consideration the report of the TRFA team, which made the first ascent of the route to the summit of Baylyan–Bashi, presumably category 4B. The report is attached. President of TRFA T. T. Gainullin Ascent Passport