Object 18500367

Description of the route to the summit of the mountain, including historical data and technical information about the 1921 ascent.

300. 1921

Climbing Mount Everest via the South Col: a description of the challenging route, key points, and preparation specifics.

A route to the summit of Milach-tcirsa in the Central Caucasus, a technically challenging and beautiful path for experienced mountaineers.

Milactyrosa

Description of the route to Pastukhov peak and the ridge to Alamedin teeth.

Peak Pastukhova and the ridge to the Alamedin Teeth.

The first ascent to the summit of Nastukhova via the Eastern ridge, route category 4B, is combined, ridge-climbing, requiring good preparation of climbers.

has cornices hanging to the north. In the upper part, the ridge has two ascents. The first one is easy to pass. The second one is a climb to the dome of the summit — an ice slope, (left side of the ridge by the route) 50 m long, 50° steep. On the slope, you need to: move left, cut through the cornice on the southern ridge, reach a simple slope, which after 15–20 m leads to the summit. The summit is a snowy dome with rock outcrops on the southwest side, where a tur is built. Descent from the summit follows the ascent route down to the lowering in the ridge (a hollow) with convenient platforms. Here, an overnight stay is organized. Further from the overnight stay, you need to:

Description of a moderately difficult mountain route with a detailed analysis of technical sections and belay elements over the course of three days.

of medium difficulty. The rocks lead to a narrow ridge "пЛЛЕ", about 100 m long. The section is very tense, requiring careful belaying through pitons and ledges, the latter needing to be thoroughly tested. The last part of the section (15 m) is overcome by sitting astride. The ridge leads to the 1st gendarme. Next is a small depression in the ridge. A rocky bridge leads to the 2nd gendarme, which is bypassed along a scree shelf on the left (60 m). The shelf leads to the right side of the ridge and ends abruptly. Then, we traverse the gendarme to the right along complex rocks into a large internal angle. This is one of the key sections of the route. Its length is about 50 m. The section requires thorough piton belaying. The rocks lead to a small shelf where all participants can gather. From the shelf, we ascend along an internal angle (70°–40 m). The rocks are complex, requiring piton belaying. The angle leads to the shoulder of the gendarme, the upper part of which is bypassed on the right along rocks of medium difficulty. Next comes a very jagged, sharp ridge — 40 m. The section requires careful belaying. The ridge leads to a sheer wall 30 m. A "sitting" descent is organized. From the bridge, we ascend along a rocky wall 15 m, 50° and descend a little below the ridge. Here, on a small shelf, a bivouac is organized. The journey from the 1st bivouac to the 2nd takes 11 hours. Day III: from the bivouac site, a small descent along rocks leads to a steep 60° rocky ascent of the ridge. The first 80 m of the ascent are traversed along scree shelves, leading to a rocky wall. The wall begins with rocks resembling lake ice (40 m — 45), which are relatively easy to traverse. Then, it is necessary to move traverse to the right onto the ridge along a narrow rocky shelf with thorough piton belaying. We are on the right side of the ridge.

Description of the ascent route to the "Pastukhov" peak in Kyrgyz Ala-Too via the eastern ridge with insurance and overnight stay.

General Information. The "Pastukhova" peak is located in the Alamudun ridge of the Kyrgyz Ala-Too range, in the Shch. Irotsenko glacier basin. To the northwest lies the "Kyrgyzstan" peak (4860 m), and to the east - the "Svobody" peak. To the northeast, a step-like rock-ice counterfort departs. The summit is a snow-ice dome. To the southwest, a complex rocky counterfort departs. The lower slopes are gentle in the upper part and steep rocky slopes in the lower part. The peak was first ascended by two groups in 1958. A group led by Master of Sports Romanov A.V. made the ascent via the eastern ridge. A group led by Eropunov A. made a traverse of the peak, ascending via the northeast counterfort and descending via the eastern ridge. Route Description. Day 1: From the base camp, located near Lake Irotsenko, ascend up the moraine and then along the Yukh. Irotsenko glacier. The glacier is calm at the intersection point, but then has crevasses. After about 1 hour of walking on the glacier, we approach a snow-ice slope leading to the eastern ridge of the peak.