Gülchi

The Gülchi massif (4477 m) consists of the peaks Gülchi and Rtsy­vash­ki. It is located in the western part of the Sugansky Ridge, between the peak of Sugan­Tau (located east of the Rtsy­vash­ki pass, to which the Southeast ridge of Gülchi descends) and the peak of Komsomol Ukrainy (to which the North ridge of Rtsy­vash­ki approaches). From under the wall of the Southwest shoulder of Gülchi in the Akhsu gorge depart:

• Southwest ridge with the peak Akhsu,
• from the East shoulder to the East Rtsy­vash­ki glacier descends a steep rocky edge. Between the southeast and south ridges of Gülchi lies the Akhsu glacier, feeding the Akhsu river, and in a small corrie under the southern slopes of the peak Akhsu - a small glacier Maly Akhsu, the flow of which is a tributary of the Akhsu river. From the summit tower of Gülchi to the northwest departs a practically uninterrupted ice-covered ridge of the main massif Gülchi, ending with a small two-humped peak Rtsy­vash­ki. Beyond Rtsy­vash­ki, the ridge of the massif:
• turns north,
• descends to the ice saddle,

Mukhol — Komsomol Ukrainy

In 1964, V. Shabokhin, L. Artyushenko, A. Zeidler, and V. Samoylenko traversed the ridge from Mukhol to Komsomol Ukrainy from July 17 to 21, bypassing the rocky massif of Glavnaya Izmaitsy from the east. No other ascents to the peaks of this section of the ridge were made. 55. Mukhol — Komsomol Ukrainy (combined route by V. Shabokhin, 4B category of difficulty, Fig. 2, 15). Fig. 15. From the initial bivouac on the right bank of the Rtsyvashki River (group of 4–8 people), cross the river and ascend along the bank of the stream in the lateral gorge to the tongue of the Severny Rtsyvashki Glacier, which descends from the saddle of the Sugansky Ridge between the peaks of Mukhol to the right and Severny Izmaitsy to the left. Without reaching the glacier, turn right. Then, along simple, gently sloping, gradually increasing in steepness, heavily destroyed rocks and scree of the second (counting from the base of the Eastern ridge of Mukhol peak) couloir, ascend 600–650 m to the saddle of the Eastern ridge of Mukhol. On the saddle, turn left and:

• along simple, steep, местами strongly destroyed rocks of the Eastern ridge or along the ledges on its right side,
• pass the simple gendarme head-on,

54. Rtsy­vash­ki — G­yul'­chi (combined route by I. Leonov, category 4B, fig. 14). From the tourist center lodge under the slopes of the North-Eastern ridge of the Nameless peak, on a wide grassy clearing in the Kara­su valley, on the right bank of the Dykh­su river, at the entrance to the canyon of the same name (group of 4-8 people), descend along the trail to the Kara­su river and cross it via the bridge. From the river, ascend along the grassy slopes, then along the scree and simple, destroyed, partly steep rocks to the 1st gendarme of the South-Western ridge of Rtsy­vash­ki peak. Further along the long, destroyed, simple and moderately difficult, partly snowy (possible cornices) rocky South-Western ridge with short sections of above average difficulty, overcoming gendarmes head-on or bypassing them, approach the Big Gendarme. From here, along the snowy steep rocks of moderate and above