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1 Tsukara Hall- 2l.

Report on the First Ascent of the Route to the Summit of Kush-Kaya via the NW Wall

5B category of difficulty

Team Leader — Andrey Martynov (1st sports category).

Coaches — N.V. Kurilskaya (Candidate Master of Sports), V.A. Shadrin (Master of Sports).

Contents

1. Introduction
2. Information about the Area
3. Route Characteristics
4. Itinerary
5. Technical Description of the Route

118. Shkhara West via the South Ridge (combined route, L. Rollestone, category 5A, fig. 20, 21, 22). From Shkhara South (no. 117) descend along the snowy (with cornices) North Ridge to the col. Cross the snowy (with cornices) rocks of medium difficulty on the col, passing the gendarmes head-on, to reach a ledge. Bivouac. 7–9 hours from the initial bivouac on the East Counterfort. From the ledge, cross a sharp snowy ridge (cornice) and approach the ascent point of Shkhara West's South Ridge. From here, follow a rock shelf up and to the right, then ascend via a snow-and-ice gully to reach the South Ridge. Continue along the snowy rocks of medium and above-medium difficulty on the South Ridge to reach the base of a wall. Overcome the 25–30-meter difficult wall head-on. Continue along rocks of medium and above-medium difficulty, with some sections on the sharp snowy South Ridge, to reach a ledge below the II wall. Bivouac. 7–9 hours from the col bivouac. Overcome the 35–40-meter difficult II wall head-on, or possibly bypass it to the right via ledges. Continue along steep snowy rocks of above-medium difficulty (with cornices) to reach the base of the III wall. Make a difficult 40–50-meter ascent up the III wall to the ridge and exit onto the South shoulder. From the shoulder, follow the long snow-and-ice, partially sharp South Ridge (with cornices) to reach the summit of Shkhara West. 9–11 hours from the bivouac. 5–6 hours from the initial bivouac.

2.5A. 2294 2nd ascent!

Ascent Record of the 1971 USSR Alpine Championship

1. Ascent category — Technical, complex.
2. Ascent region — Central Caucasus (Shkhara region).
3. Ascent route with peak names and elevations — West Shkhara via Southeast wall (5058 m).
4. Ascent characteristics: Elevation gain — 1960 m. Average slope — 75°.

1999

August 14 August 18 August 17 August 16 August 15

ASCENT CERTIFICATE

of the ascent made in the 1970 USSR Alpine Championship

1. Ascent class — technically challenging
2. Ascent area — Khalde - Bezengi
3. Ascent route indicating peaks and their elevations — Western Shkhara via the center of the southwest wall 5058 m.
4. Ascent characteristics:
   • elevation gain — 1500 m
   • average steepness:
     • lower section 60°
     • upper section 90°

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I. Category of ascent — category of technical ascents. 2. Region of ascent — Central Caucasus. 3. Peak and route — Western Shkhara (5058 m) via the center of the southwest face. 4. Estimated category of difficulty — 6th cat. diff. 5. Characteristics of the route: a) height difference — 1540 m; b) length of sections — 6th cat. diff. — 695 m; — 5th cat. diff. — 520 m; c) average steepness — 75°; e) steepness of the lower half — 60–65°; d) steepness of the rocky bastion — 90°.