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Description of the ascent route to the summit of Usogame (4A category of difficulty) in the MGP massif with a detailed analysis of technical difficulties and tactics for passing.

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Footnotes

  1. 4­А — Usogametechi MGP

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Report on traversing the Dombai-Ulgen massif via a Category 5B route, completed by a team from the Crimean Republican Alpine Club in August 2023.

Report

On the traverse of the Dombay-Ulgen massif (v. Vostochnaya — 3968 m, v. Glavnaya — 4047 m, v. Zapadnaya — 4038 m) (V. Davydov) 5B category of complexity By the team of the Crimean Republican Club of Alpinists, Climbers, and Ice Climbers "Mountain School 'Category of Difficulty'"

For the period

From August 5, 2023, to August 7, 2023. Semenov M. A. — MS, leader; Vvedenskaya V. V. — 2nd sports category; Alpinclub — Gornoye bezumiye 2023 year.

I. Climbing report

| | 1. General information | |

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Report on the ascent to the summit of Klukhor-Bashi 3450 m via the glacier of the northern slope, category 1B complexity.

Report

On the ascent of the Karachay-Cherkess Republic team to the summit of Klukhor-Bashi 3450 m

via the glacier on the northern slope. Category 1B difficulty. Presumably Category 1B difficulty. Ascent on September 8, 2022. Semenov M. A. - Master of Sports, team leader Maksimov K. M. - experienced, second-class climber Alpclub - "Mountain Madness"

2. Caucasus

2.2 From Marukh Pass to Nakhar Pass

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First ascent description of the route "Nочь перед Рождеством" (Christmas Eve) category 5B on the north wall of the Second Western Shhelda (4310 m) in the Central Caucasus.

Ascent Passport

  1. Class of technical (winter) ascents.
  2. Central Caucasus, Shkhelda gorge.
  3. Shkhelda Second Western (4310 m), via the northern wall "The Night Before Christmas".
  4. Proposed category: 5B difficulty level, first ascent.
  5. Elevation gain: 1500 m (by altimeter), length — 2400 m. Length of 5th category difficulty sections — 800 m. Length of 6th category difficulty sections — 50 m. Average steepness of the route — 50°, main part — 65°.
  6. Pitons hammered: rock — 12, friends — 15, ice screws — 65. Left on the route: rock pitons — 2.
  7. Team's travel hours: 23 hours and 2.5 days.
  8. Overnights: 1st in a tent on a snowy ridge, 2nd in a tent under a rock outcropping, sitting.
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