в. Bakedux, 4270 m по В кф. сл. гре­бня, к 4Ак (сл. маршрут D. Ду­равско­го), 55

REPORT

on the first ascent of p. GERMOGENOVA via the North face tentatively Cat. diff. 3B protocol № 564 p. 4 dated October 28, 1986

Kogutai-Bashi 3821 m.

¹

35. Traverse of Elbrus massif with ascent to Kyukyurtly via South Wall couloir (I. Evseev's 4A category route). The path from Terskol village (group of 4–6 people) to Khotyutau pass is described in route 32. From Khotyutau pass — down scree, then along the trail to Ullukam River, cross the river to the right bank and ascend grassy slopes to the Western ridge adjoining the South-West walls of Kyukyurtly peak. Along scree, then via a simple but steep rocky snow-covered counterfort or to the right of it via a couloir (rockfall!) ascend to the Western ridge. From here, turn right and follow a simple wide ridge with minor ups and downs to reach beneath the South-West walls of

Ascent Passport

1. Technical climbing category.
2. Region 2.4, Caucasus, from Chiperezau pass to Gumači peak, Elbrus southwest spur.
3. Kyukyurtlyu (Kyukyurtlyu–Kolbashi), 4639 m, point 107, T. Lukashvili route 1981, via the center of the NW wall.
4. Rock route.
5. 6B category of difficulty, seventh ascent.
6. Route characteristics:
   • Route elevation gain — 590 m,
   • Route length — 845 m,
   • Length of sections with 5th category of difficulty — 310 m,

Kukurtli to the center of the NW wall, T. Lukashvili's route, 1981 Caucasus 2.4.107 (110)

Passport

1. Technical class.
2. Caucasus. Elbrus Southwest shoulder.
3. Kukurtli via the center of the NW wall, 4639 m.
4. Assumed to be 6B category of difficulty (6th ascent).
5. Height difference: 780 m, of which 450 m is wall section, length - 1350 m. Section lengths: 5 category of difficulty - 305 m, of which 40 m on artificial terrain (AID).

Ascent Passport

1. Area 2.4, Caucasus, from Chiperazau Pass to Gumači peak, Ullukhurzuk gorge, southwestern spur of Mt. Elbrus.
2. Kyukyurtlyu (Kyukyurtlyu–Kolbashi) 4639 m, via the center of the Western wall.
3. Proposed category: 6B, first ascent.
4. Route type: rock.
5. Route elevation gain: 590 m, route length: 800 m, wall height: 470 m, wall section length: 515 m, section lengths by category: I - 150 m, II - 60 m, III - 70 m, IV - 80 m, V - 145 m (95 m on artificial anchors), VI - 390 m (all on artificial anchors); total artificial anchors: 390 m, difficulty: A1 - 35 m, A2 - 265 m, A3 - 90 m, average wall slope: 83°, overall route slope: 65°.
6. Anchors left on the route: total — 48 including:
   • rock anchors — 14

Passport

I. Rock class 2. Central Caucasus 3. Mt. Ullukara via the central pillar of the 3rd section of the wall 4. Proposed category: 5B, first ascent 5. Height difference: 672 m, route length: 1190 m Length of sections with category 5-6 difficulty — 400 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route — 49°. 6. Pitons driven: * rock pitons — 76

Ascent Passport

1. Class — winter
2. Climbing area — Central Caucasus
3. Peak — Ushba N. 4694 m, via the Northwest wall
4. Category of difficulty — 6A
5. Height difference — 1017 m, length — 1700 m, length of sections with 5th category of difficulty — 1020 m, length of sections with 6th category of difficulty — 70 m, average steepness of the wall section of the route — 47°
6. Pitons driven: rock, chocks, ice screws, bolt pitons | 5 | 3 | 83 | 0 | | :-: | :-: | :--: | :-: | | 0 | 0 | 0 | 0 |

Ushba Shkhana, 4710 m, via "Red corner", c, CA cat. diff., route A. Shultse, 03. From the Ma­ze­ri vil­lage, the path to the summit goes along the small Gu­li-Cha­le stream to the Gulsky glacier (6–7 hours). Bivouac on the grassy slopes near the Gul glacier. From the bivouac site:

• Cross the Gul glacier towards a wide snow couloir, which starts the ascent to the Ma­zer­skaya saddle.
• Having gone about 2/3 of the distance along the couloir, turn right into a small rocky couloir.
• Exit through it to a ridge, which leads to the beginning of a narrow snow couloir.
• Move along this couloir to the Ma­zer­skaya saddle (jags) — 4–4.5 hours from the bivouac.