REPORT

• on the ascent made in the area ch. Caucasian ridge and its spurs from Marukh pass to Pakhar pass to the summit of KAP PIK (3400 m) from the Belalakaisky glacier (from the north)

Group Members:

1. Slezyn Yu. — MS
2. Ovcharenko V.D. — 1st sports category
3. Pilipenko V.S. — 1st sports category
4. Volkov L.B. — 1st sports category

DESCRIPTION

of the ascent route to Peak KAP From the Ali-Bek base camp along the trail through the Ali-Bek river up to the Belalakai canyon via the "Monkey trail" to the overnight stay. 1.5 hours. From the overnight stay through a snow bridge in the canyon or via a wedged stone to the trail on the right-bank moraine of the Belalakai glacier and along it to the tongue of the glacier. Crossing the tongue of the glacier in its lower part, approach under a wide green couloir and up it to the saddle on the north-eastern ridge of Peak KAP. 1.5 hours from the overnight stay. ASCENT PASSPORT

1. Ascent class — rock climbing
2. Ascent area — Western Caucasus from Marukh pass to Nakhar pass
3. Summit

Report

On the first ascent to the summit of Pik Ratzek via the eastern counterfort, route 2B category, by the Ak-Sai Travel team from 1.10.2023 to 1.10.2023.

I. Climbing Passport

The ascent to the summit begins from Pakhan Taymazin along the slope along the edge of the Tana-dan river to the entrance to Mount Kubye (2345 m) to the Tana-dere area (3-4 hours). There are parking spaces, if not blocked. From the area's edge to the yakutap's stop, the entrances are on the right along the area's path, the entrance is on the left along the edge between the Tana-dere area and the yakutap's stop and along it to the level of the hourly area. From Pokhno Taymazin 6th from the blockage on the sanad (help? and 6) 6 evenly between (equal and voemunoya Aabodol). We overcome along the even slope, the ascent is steep along the even slope to the north-eastern edge of the rebe. The descent is intentionally done with a rope and rappelling. Along the stops, the entrance to the redopind is in a state of even-redo-boro verunichnogo kulara. We overcome the redopind along the even slope, the ascent is along the amk-nole-nije rebo to the summit along the emame-provad even-dobam even-khon kru-minol 40°–45°. The descent is 6 as hand-held emy-re-ned and emparakhol veres redopyd and redobor kponovs. From the blockage on the pre-vine ekhakh to the veruin-kho 5-4 hours. The descent along the nylu nabse-na to Pokhno Taymazin 6-7 hours.

Recommendations for the climb

1. In the summer, epegm climb with a guide.
2. Kanuvem-benxoni composition of the group should not be aepanu-ni-buan-mkhs.
3. Dpu good weather, movement is better organized with ssoka reanuka Tana- eme and bu-od-os parno umpram, edepukhmts voskhazdenie with enych-em x povehe.
4. On the climb, there are khouxxi, redopydos, 5-4 red khpnoho and op. elakakh

South Sugan

South Sugan (3900 m) is a small peak in the ridge connecting the Sugan ridge with the Main ridge, between the peaks of Shtulu to the south and False Sugan to the north. The slopes of the peak are home to:

• Western glaciers - snowfields that feed the Akhsu river
• Eastern glaciers - snowfields that feed the Orsdon river Technically simple, heavily destroyed South Sugan is rarely visited by climbers (mainly during traverse with False Sugan). The only route was climbed on August 4, 1929, by L. Gasparotto, U. Vallepiano, K. Geron, G. Zinger.

47. South Sugan via the South ridge (combined route, 1B category of difficulty, Fig. 12). The path from the "Nakhashbita" clearing (group of 4-20 people) to the tongue of the Doppakh glacier is described in route 46. From here, ascend the moraine to the tongue of the Doppakh glacier and cross it to the left in the direction of a small snow slope under the saddle of the South ridge of the South Sugan peak. After crossing the glacier, cross a small stream flowing from under the small hanging Soldier glacier, which is located under the saddle of the ridge connecting the peaks of South Sugan to the left and False Sugan to the right. Then traverse left - up the scree slopes of the southeastern slopes of the South Sugan peak, in the direction of a large snowfield under the saddle of the South ridge of the peak. Up the snowfield, straight up, then up the gentle ("live") rocks (insurance) - ascent of 50-60 m to the saddle of the South ridge of the South Sugan peak.

Report

on the ascent to the summit 3423 m (peak NPI) via the western ridge from Otryog pass, presumably category 1B, first ascent

Ascent Passport

1. Region: Western Caucasus, Aксаут region, Bolshaya Marka valley, section 2.2 of the classifier of routes to mountain peaks.
2. Summit: 3423 m (peak NPI), via the western ridge.
3. Proposed category: 1B, first ascent.
4. Route type: rock.
5. Height difference: 150 m (total – 650 m) Route length (technical part): 250 m. Length of sections with category III difficulty: 100 m.