Fig. 16

Fig. 16

From the "Djangi-kosh" hut along the crest of the right-bank ("crescent-shaped") moraine to its flattening, then along the Sella Glacier. Along the left edge or through the middle of the icefall (Fig. 1) exit to the upper circus (cautious — closed crevices) and through it under the N wall of the Sella peak, 1 h 31 min. Through the bergschrund along the ice-snow slope to the left of the ice fall with piton belay in the direction to the summit (attention — do not deviate left, rockfall hazard from the rocks of the NE ridge counterfort). Along the steepness, the route has sections: 1 — ice slope (120 m, 45–50°) from the lower bergschrund to the ice edge of the ice fall. 2 — ice slope (40 m, 50–55°) in the ice fall zone. 3 — ice-snow slope (80 m, 45°) from the ice fall to the upper bergschrund. 4 — ice-snow slope (120 m, 45–30°) from the second bergschrund to the summit ridge. The difference of edges of the second bergschrund along the path is 1.5–2 m, in the absence of bridges traverse right for 20 m — here the difference is smaller. Depending on the ascent timing, the length of the snow sections of the wall is 120–150 m, belay — through ice axes. For ascent 8–12 h. Descent from the summit along the NE ridge to the saddle, then along the slope to the right onto the Bezengi Glacier and along it (attention — closed crevices, under the S slopes of the Varshava peak — rockfall hazard) to the hut 1.5–2 h. Hazardous places: on glaciers — closed crevices and rockfall hazard under the S slopes of the Varshava peak, on the N wall of the Sella peak — rockfall hazard when deviating left, on the NE ridge — possible cornices to the right. Special equipment: ice axes 8–12 pcs., crampons — for all.

84. Shkhelda Zapadnaya via the Western ridge from the North (Category II route). The path from the Shkhelda alpine camp to the saddle between Pik Profsoyuzov and Shkhelda Zapadnaya with the initial bivouac at "Aristov's overnight stay" is described in route 82. Group size: 4-20 people. The path from the saddle to the summit of Shkhelda Zapadnaya is described in route 85. Descent follows the ascent route. Duration of the route is 3 days. Required equipment:

• 4-5 ice axes
• Crampons for all participants

39. Peak Tikhonov via North Face — Cat. 4A (L. Alekshashin, V. Koptev and Yu. Minin — August 14, 1959). The route from the Bezengi alpine camp to the bivouac on the Southern ridge of the Utug gendarme is described in route 18. Bivouac on the Southern ridge. From the bivouac:

• Descend to the glacier above the third stage of the icefall
• Cross the glacier to the right towards the North Face of Peak Tikhonov
• On the glacier (with crampons!), bypass the base of the northern rock walls of Peak Tikhonov on the left
• Move along the right side of a steep, wide snow-ice slope — a couloir descending from the saddle — the junction of the Eastern ridge of Peak Tikhonov and the Western ridge of Koshtantau peak
• Ascend 200 m up to the base of the rock wall
• Ascend 70 m up steep snow-covered difficult rocks of the wall — to the right (pitched climbing!) to reach the left counterfort

Fig. 17

Fig. 17

As­cent time 5–6 hours.

Route rec­om­men­da­tion.

When pass­ing through the glacier to the saddle, it is nec­es­sary to keep a close watch on the stones fall­ing from the slopes of Na­khab­i­ta. Melon at any time of day.

2. When mak­ing the as­cent in one day, the group should have good phys­i­cal and tech­ni­cal train­ing. Leave the foot of "Na­khab­i­ta" not later than 4:00 am. If the group's train­ing is weak, they should over­night on the saddle.
3. The group should have: cram­pons, ice axes, main ropes, 4–5 ice screws and 2–3 rock pitons, pieces of rope for 2–3 slings.