212. Peak Tyrnyauz komsomoltsy via the North Ridge (Category 1B, L. Zanilov, D. Kuzminsky, August 30, 1962, Fig. 38). The path from Tyrnyauz to the initial bivouac under the terminal moraine in the upper reaches of the Sakashil River is described in routes 209 and 210. From the bivouac, ascend the terraces and slopes on the left bank of the Sakashil River, gradually turning left and traversing the slope up to the left to reach the clearly visible saddle on the North Ridge of Peak Tyrnyauz komsomoltsy. From the bivouac, 1-1.5 hours. From the saddle, turn right and, bypassing a small gendarme on the left, reach the ridge. From here, ascend the wide, gentle ridge, then a rocky ascent to an inclined 15-meter slab with a crack in the upper part. After passing the slab, move up 4-5 meters on simple but steep rocks to the gentle part of the ridge. On the gentle ridge, reach the second 20-meter inclined slab, which is climbed directly. Further, on a rocky ascent, bypassing a protruding sheer angle on the left, on an inner corner and on a 30-meter crack, ascend to the gentle pre-summit ridge. On simple rocks of the ridge and a 4-5-meter ascent, climb to Peak Tyrnyauz komsomoltsy. From the initial bivouac, 4.5-5 hours. Descent is made via the ascent route. Duration of the route is 2 days.

The summit of MALAА Ј­ŽBA is located in the main Caucasian ridge on the Ј­žbinskoye plateau. To the northeast of M. Ј­žba is the summit of Chatyn-Tau, to the southwest — Severnyaya and Yuzhnaya Ј­žba, to the north — Shchurovsky peak. The summit of M. Ј­žba rises above the Ј­žbinskoye plateau by 150 meters. The only ridge descending from the summit goes in the direction of the Chalaat pass; in the three other directions, the slopes of the summit break off with steep walls. The first Soviet ascent was made in 1936 by a group consisting of Sidorenko and Slobodskaya via the right couloir. The ascent to the summit is made from the Ј­žbinskoye plateau. The ascent from the plateau to the summit and descent back to the plateau takes 3–4.5 hours.

264. Ushba South via the center of the Northwest wall (combined route, Yu. Grigorenko - Prigoda, cat. 5B, fig. 32, 37, 38). From the initial bivouac in the cirque of the southeastern branch of the Ushbinsky glacier, under the western ridge of Ushba South (point 259), approach the right side of the lower rock belt. From the glacier, ascend a steep ice-and-snow slope, then 150–200 m of very difficult rocks (aid, exposed) on the right side of the lower belt, left of a large corner, to reach the Georgian shelf. From the initial bivouac, 8–10 hours. I. Marr's group exited onto the shelf from the right, where it descends almost to the ice-and-snow slope of the southeastern branch. Along the steep snowy slabs of the Georgian shelf, make a difficult traverse 300–350 m up and left, crossing numerous ice gullies (avalanches, stones). Ascend 120 m up and left on steep rocks of medium and above medium difficulty to a platform at the end of the Georgian shelf - the upper part of the Lower rock belt. Bivouac. From the initial bivouac, 8–14 hours. From the platform, along a steep 80–90-meter ridge of the Lower ice-and-snow slope, approach the left side of the base of the Central bastion of the Middle rock belt of the Northwest wall. Along a steep, difficult, interrupted ledge-corner of the Central bastion, 120 m up and right, under overhanging rocks. Through a crack in the overhanging rocks, 8 m up (aid, leaning) under a large corner. On the right side of the corner, a very difficult ascent 60–80 m (aid, leaning) onto a shelf, then through a crack and wall into a niche. Further, 70 m up a very difficult (aid, leaning) vertical corner, bypassing overhanging rocks on the left, to a small platform. Sitting bivouac. From the Georgian shelf, 10–12 hours. From the shelf, along steep, smoothed, iced rocks, a difficult ascent 40 m (aid, leaning) to the top of the Central bastion of the Middle rock belt. From the Central bastion:

«Дикая Птугань» (1) 2160 м

338. Shtavler via the Southeast Ridge (route is combined, category 2A, fig. 32, 44). From the Nakra village upwards (to the west) through the forest, then across grassy slopes, further across scree to reach the areas under the ascent of the Eastern gendarme of the Southwest Ridge of Shtavler peak. Initial bivouac. From Nakra village 4–5 hours. From the areas, via easy simple snow-covered rocks of the Southeast ridge, ascent to the Eastern gendarme. From the gendarme, a simple descent onto a snowy plateau. Via simple destroyed snow-covered rocks of the Southeast ridge ascend to the summit of Shtavler. From the initial bivouac 4–5 hours.

To the report on the ascent to v. No. Zap. Yarydag via the S wall. The photographs show the view of the peak Zap. Yarydag from the South. (photo 1 — Distant view, photo 2 — Close-up view). The route passes between the gendarmes "Zub" and the buttress, beyond which the SE wall of the peak begins. Thus, the route has natural limitations, and deviating from them is more challenging than the route itself. It is impossible to approach the first belay station from the side. The second belay station can be reached via the SE wall (see photo 3). Photo 3 shows the view of the peak Zap. Yarydag from the SE, from the Kurush pass. The profile of the buttress separating the S and SE walls is visible, with "Zub" peeking out from behind it. Although the route is not visible, the photograph gives an idea of the average steepness of the route — it should not be less than the average steepness of the buttress. On the right part of the SE wall, there is a couloir and a snowy slope, which some groups have used to descend from the peak. The first ascenders believe that the route is very logical, original (i.e., it does not repeat previously climbed routes and is not a variation of them), and deserves an assessment as a 4B category of difficulty route. Photo 1. 2nd Zap. peak of the Yarydag massif. View from the south (from the trail to Kurush pass). The SW buttress is on the left. Photo 2. 2nd Zap. peak of the Yarydag massif. View from the south, from under the route. Sections 5–6, 6–8, and 7–8 are practically not visible.

Passport

1. Character of the route — rock
2. Eastern Caucasus, Shakhnabad and Kusarчай river gorge
3. Shahdag Eastern by the North-eastern slope
4. Assumed to be category 2B difficulty — first ascent
5. Elevation gain — 1025 m, length — 2270 m Length of category 2–3 difficulty sections — 140 m 3–4 category difficulty — 70 m Average steepness of the main part of the route — 26°
6. Travel hours — 11 hours

Mt. Aag. 2310 m, cat. 1B, to the 3rd slope, M. Ostrogorsky. 1977. From the base camp located on the Dremuchiy stream. The approach to the western slope is along a flat valley of lava fields. The ascent begins on a wide ridge along a snowy slope covered with large slag (see photo). Further along the ridge to the snowy ascent with small rock outcrops, the ascent is along the rocks to the shoulder. From the shoulder, the ascent is along the snowy slope to the summit dome. The entire route is traversed simultaneously. The ascent time is 5–6 hours. The descent from the summit is via the ascent route. However, it is possible to descend from the dome into a wide couloir leading to the west parallel to the route. It is safe and very convenient for skiing down.

VOLCANO ARIK Western slope 1B M. Ostrogorsky 77 Combined The base camp is best located on the forest boundary in the Dremuchiy stream. The approach from the camp to the route goes through a snowy hollow (it's possible to approach on skis), through a steep ascent - exit to a snowy plateau. Snow ascent to the slope of the summit with rocky fields. From it - to a snowy cirque with rocky outcrops of triangular shape. Ascent is along the left edge, without going down, to the right. Before the summit cirque, the shoulder goes to the right, along it - exit directly to the summit. Ascent time - 5 hours. Descent is via the ascent route.

Report on the First Ascent to the Peak 3428 m via the Northwest Ridge, Presumably Category 1B, by the Team of the "Freeline" Multidisciplinary Mountaineering Club from Essentuki, July 14-15, 2018

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