2. 4.132

REPORT

on the ascent to the peak MNR south-west via the eastern edge from the Kurmy glacier (first ascent, estimated cat. diff. 4A), made by the group of the tourist center “Adyl-Su” on July 6, 1975. To the CKFA for clarification of the category of difficulty (route No. 184 according to the KTMGВ, cat. diff. 3B). Map of the ascent area.

DESCRIPTION OF THE APPROACH TO THE ROUTE

Drive along the road up the Adyl-Su gorge to the “Adyl-Su” hostel of the USSR Ministry of Defense. From the hostel, follow the trail first along steep grassy slopes, and then along the talus to climb to the VTsSPS pass. From the hostel, it takes 3–5 hours. From the pass, descend along the talus slopes to the plateau of the Kurmy glacier below the south-western peak of MNR. From the pass, it takes 30 minutes. Camp on the plateau or on the talus areas below the VTsSPS pass.

TABLE OF ROUTE CHARACTERISTICS

49. Nakra via North-West Ridge (Route 2B cat. dif.). The path from the "Baksan" alp camp (group 4, 20 people) to the Donguzorun false pass col is described in routes 44 and 48. From the col, go left and 300–400 m up the heavily destroyed simple rocky North-West Ridge to a site below the first rocky ascent of Nakra peak. This part of the ridge can be bypassed on the right by descending from the col 15–20 m to the south, and traversing along the ridge to reach the first snowy ascent. Here, turn left and rise up the snowy slope to the sites on the ridge. The initial bivouac is on the sites. From the "Baksan" alp camp, 9–10 hours. From the sites (without backpacks), ascent along the heavily

As­cen­sion along the North­ern coun­ter­force and North­west

De­scrip­tion of Shar­ni­rog

From the ridge of the Bok­tu­zu­ruk hinge to the North, compressed between the North­ern coun­ter­forc­es of v. Ka­za­ra and 300–400 m away from them, be­hind large boul­ders, by­pass­ing the last corn­er of the na­ga­to­go. The en­trance to the boul­ders of the root and the growth are at­trib­uted to the whole Shar­ni­rog. With beds along sim­ple ris­ing ter­rain, com­pressed coun­ter­force wool up­wards. Solid­i­fi­ca­tion with hard 60 m along the spe­cif­ic corn­er with a сквоз­nym for­est, then 150–200 m along com­pressed me­dium-dif­fi­culty ter­rain to mi­nua­da­li. Above the skill com­pressed with skele­ton (along mi­nua­dale konzro­reyevom 150). Skill-ful wool, en­circled from the left. Be­hind it up­wards along com­pressed

& 150–200 × 45°–50°
& 200–250 mm
& 200–220 × 111–1 B
& 100 × 30°
& 250–300 m H–1 B
& 100–120 × 25°–35°
& 10 m H & 200 m H–1 B

First ascent of the unnamed peak (Rear Nakra) The ascent was made on July 6, 1975 by a group of instructors from the Shkhelda alpine camp:

1. ZHUKOV S.Ya. — 1st sports category (leader)
2. MAERKOVICH I.V. — 2nd sports category
3. SOLOVYOVA G.M. — Master of Sports of Russia
4. MUKHINA I.V. — 1st sports category
5. GUR'YAN Yu.A. — 1st sports category
6. ZAMYATNIN L.M. — 1st sports category The peak is located in a low spur extending from Nakra peak towards Ledesh peak and dividing the basins of the Hevai glacier and the Southern plateau of Donguz-Orun. From the base camp, located at the confluence of the Hevai and Kvish glaciers, ascend via the high right-bank moraine of the Hevai glacier to the glacier cirque (1 hr) and across the glacier plateau towards the clearly visible peak closing the cirque and composed of yellow-colored rocks.

Ascent Log

1. Ascent category: technical.
2. Ascent area: Greater Caucasus from Chiper-Azau Pass to Kitlod Pass.
3. Ascent route with indication of peaks and their elevations: Zadnaya Nakra (3752 m) via the northern ridge from Khevai Pass.
4. Ascent characteristics: elevation gain 850 m; average slope 30°; complex section length: approx. 25 m.
5. Pitons driven: none.
6. Number of climbing hours: 5.
7. Number of nights and their characteristics: initial bivouacs at the confluence of Kvish and Khevai glaciers, comfortable. No bivouacs on the route.
8. Team name: group of climbers from "Baksan" alpine camp.
9. Surname, name, patronymic of the leader, participants, and their qualification:

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — rock
2. Ascent area — Central Caucasus, Main Ridge
3. Peak, its height, and ascent route — p. Olimpiycev, 3805 m, via the western ridge.
4. Estimated difficulty category — 2A
5. Route characteristics:
   • height difference — 200 m
   • average steepness — 40 m
   • length of section I — 400 m
6. Number of travel hours — 2