Kalper

Kalper (3800 m) — the extreme northeastern, purely rocky peak of the Kalper ridge. Its northern ridge descends to the confluence of the Tseylo and Ardon rivers. There are many "live" stones on the slopes and ridges of the summit. Fig. 42 211. Kalper via the Eastern slope of the Southern ridge (rocky route, category 2B, fig. 41, 42). From the CSP of the Tsey district (group of 4-20 people), ascend along the trail on the grassy slopes along the left bank of the Skazdon river. Then turn left and move up along the trail on the grassy slope along the edge of the forest towards the cone-shaped tower. Bypass the tower on the left and exit to the right onto the scree. Ascend to the second, standalone rocky tower via the scree, bypass it on the right, and enter the scree-filled couloir leading to the Ossetian pass. On the left side of the wide, snow-filled couloir in its upper part, bypass a rock protruding into the couloir on the right, and ascend to the Ossetian pass (stonefall is possible from Peak Three into the couloir and onto the pass). From the CSP of the Tsey district, 6-7 hours. From the Ossetian pass, descend along steep, fine scree slopes, then along a snowy slope. Cross the bergschrund and exit onto the Kalper glacier (stonefall is possible from the slopes of Peak Three), cross it, and approach the median moraine. From it, ascend to the right — upwards, first along the glacier, then along the snowy slope to the left side of the saddle connecting the Kalper summit and Peak Shulgin — the Kalper pass. From the Ossetian pass, 1.5-2 hours. The Kalper pass has a bivouac site. Water is available on the western slope of the Southern ridge of the Kalper summit.

From the Osetin pass, [descend] along the middle part of the glacier, then along the scree and reach the second rocky outcrop (counting from the Kalper pass). From the rocky outcrop, go left-up along the scree and "sheep's foreheads" to the platforms. From the Osetin pass I — 1 h 30 min. From the platforms, ascend left to a green ledge. Traverse the ledge right-up towards the "gates." Then, ascend a snowy (snow-ice) slope to enter the "gates" (with protection) and then rise to a scree saddle. Cairn! From the platforms 1 h. From the saddle, ascend first left-up (30 m), and then along an inclined ledge right-up (loose rocks!) to the black vertical veins on the 80-meter wall. Overcome the wall to the right of the black veins. (Difficult climbing, piton protection, possible rockfall from above!) After overcoming the wall, traverse right (40 m) along a snowy couloir (protection! Possible rockfall!) and exit onto a simple ridge. Ascend the ridge with simultaneous, sometimes alternating, protection left-up to a triangular rock. Traverse the rock left-up (piton protection!) and then right-up to reach the upper edge. Continue strictly along the edge towards the summit. From the control point

169. Kaltberg (4120 m) via the Western slope and the Northern ridge (combined route, category 1B difficulty, Fig. 35). The path from the CSP of the Tsey region (group of 4-6 people) to the Lower Ice overnight camps is described in route 83. From the Lower Ice overnight camps, cross the Uilpatinka river and, turning left, intersect the right-bank moraine. Descend from it to the Tsey glacier, cross it, then ascend to the left-bank moraine at its lowest part. Leave the moraine and ascend via the middle talus on the right side of the couloir descending from the Northern ridge of Kaltberg peak. Then:

• cross the couloir to the left and upwards,
• reach a grassy slope and move up along it to the Western counterfort. Further, via simple broken rocks and talus of the Western counterfort, bypassing all gendarmes along simple rocks and talus ledges, ascend to the Northern ridge of Kaltberg. Here, turn right and, via simple rocks, bypassing difficult wall sections on the left, then along the 100-120-meter wide icy-snowy Northern ridge (with protection), approach the Big Gendarme. Here, exit right onto a talus ledge. Along it, then via steep rocks of the Northern ridge, ascend to the Big Gendarme. From the gendarme, make a 12-15 m sports descent to a snowy saddle. Further:
• via steep rocks of the narrow Northern ridge,
• a 30-meter broken ascent,
• ascend to the summit of Kaltberg.

Fig. 21 89. Karaugom East (4495 m) via North-Eastern Ridge (combined route by V. Lubents, category III, fig. 21). The path from CSP of Tsey region or from the village of Dzanaga (group of 4–8 people) to the initial bivouac on the platforms of the Western ridge of Bivouachnaya peak is described in route 83. From the bivouac, cross the Karaugom plateau to the northwest (closed crevasses) and approach a wide snowy saddle on the ridge connecting the peaks of Vologata on the right and Karaugom on the left. Reach the bergschrund on the left side of the wide snowy slope and, overcoming it via a snow bridge, ascend a steep ice-snow (belay) 300–400-meter slope to the saddle. Here, turn left. Further:

• Along the wide ridge of the saddle (cornice)
• Then along the gradually increasing steepness of the North-Eastern ridge of Karaugom East (cornices)
• Exit through a 10–12-meter ice wall onto the takeoff rocks (pitched belay) Along simple and medium-difficulty takeoff rocks («live» stones, pitched belay) of the North-Eastern ridge, ascend to the shoulder. From the shoulder, along a snowy (cornices), then along a heavily destroyed and snow-covered rocky ridge («live» stones — belay) reach the summit of Karaugom East. From the initial bivouac, 6–7 hours. Descent follows the ascent route. Source:

Fig. 21 88. Karaugom East (4495 m) via the Southeast Buttress (G. Rebërn's combined route, Category III, Fig. 21). The path from the KSP of the Tsey region or from the village of Dzinaga (group of 4-8 people) to the initial bivouac on the platforms of the Western ridge of Bivouachnaya peak is described in route 83. From the bivouac, cross northwest across the Karaugom plateau (closed crevasses) and approach the wide southern slope of the Southeast Buttress of Karaugom East. From the plateau, having passed the bergschrund, ascend a steep 300-400-meter snowy slope (avalanche danger) to the saddle of the Southeast Buttress above the large first pinnacle. On the saddle, turn left and ascend the sharp snowy ridge (cornice). Further, along simple, partially medium-difficulty snow-covered rocks of the Southeast Buttress, approach the large pinnacle. Bypass the pinnacle on the right along a steep ice-snow slope or overcome it directly via steep rocks of medium difficulty (running belay). Behind the pinnacle, initially along a snowy (cornices), then along a heavily damaged rocky Southeast Buttress with "live" rocks - belay - ascend to the shoulder. Here, turn left and along the simple, gently sloping, damaged, and snow-covered (cornices) Northeastern ridge, ascend to the summit of Karaugom East. From the initial bivouac, 7-8 hours. Descent follows the ascent route. Naumov A. F. Karaugom, Digoria, Tsey (Central Caucasus), M., "Fizkultura i sport", 1976.

86. Karaugom West via the South slope and the East ridge (combined route by M. Anufrikov, 3A category of difficulty, fig. 20, 21). The path from the CSP of the Tsey region or from the village of Dzanaga (group of 4-8 people) to the initial bivouac on the platforms of the West ridge of the Bivouacnaya peak is described in route 83. From the bivouac, cross the Karaugom plateau and approach (closed crevices) under the southern slope of the wide snow saddle in the middle of the Karaugom massif. From the plateau, reach the bergschrund along the snowy slope. Having overcome it along a snow bridge, ascend 400-500 m along the steep ice-snow slope along the left side of the long rocky spur under the center of the saddle (avalanches and rockfall are possible - piton belay) to the saddle of the massif (cornice). Here, turn left and along the steep 120-150-meter ice-snow slope (cornice - piton belay) of the East ridge, approach under the summit tower. Then, along the 200-250-meter frozen rocks of medium difficulty and the 60-80-meter snowy East ridge, ascend to the summit West Karaugom. From the initial bivouac, it takes 5-7 hours. Descent is done by the ascent route.

222. Lagai (4124 m) via the Northwest slope (K. Barov's combined route, category 4A). From the CSP of the Tsey region (a group of 4-8 people), ascend along the trail on the left bank of the Skazdon River. After passing the "Green Hill," climb the moraine that turns left. From the end of the moraine, traverse a wide scree slope to the left to reach a small plateau below the Northwest slopes of Lagai. Set up the initial bivouac on the plateau. The journey from the CSP of the Tsey region takes 4-5 hours. From the plateau (depart at 3:00 due to rockfall risk in the lower section of the route):

• Ascend a steep, potentially snow-covered scree slope in a wide couloir to reach three rock buttresses separated by narrow, steep snow and ice couloirs, to the right of the steep, rugged snow and ice slope of Lagai.
• From here, climb simple to moderately difficult rocks on the middle buttress ("loose rocks"), bypassing gendarmes on the left, to reach a platform on the left saddle.
• An alternative ascent to the saddle is possible via a couloir on the left, but it is more prone to rockfall. The journey from the initial bivouac takes 2-4 hours. From the saddle, ascend rocks of moderate difficulty, then a 200-220-meter snow and ice slope (avalanche and rockfall risk), to reach a col formed by ice falls from the glacier on the left and a rock belt wall on the right. From under the col:
• Climb 120-150 meters to the right and upwards on steep, slab-like, destroyed, and icy rocks of the belt wall, with moderate to above moderate difficulty ("loose rocks" - piton protection);

196. Peak Nikolayeva (3815 m) via the Eastern ridge from the North (combined route, category 2B difficulty, fig. 38). The path from the CSP of the Tsey region (a group of 4–12 people) to the Northern branch of the Tsey glacier with the initial bivouac in the hut of the Southern branch of the Tsey glacier is described in route 83. From the Northern branch of the Tsey glacier (closed crevasses):

• Ascend 300–350 m along a wide snow-ice couloir or along the rocks on its left side (there is a risk of rockfall in the couloir) to the saddle on the ridge connecting Peak Nikolayeva on the right and Khitsan on the left.
• From the hut — 3–5 hours. The further ascent route is described in route 194. Descent along the southern slope (see route 193). Naumov A. F. Karaugom, Digoriya, Tsey (Central Caucasus), M., "Fizkultura i sport", 1976.

195. Peak Nikolayeva (3815 m) via North Face (M. Anufrikov's combined route, Category III, Fig. 38). The path from the Tsей area's KSP (group of 4–8 people) to the North Branch of the Tsей Glacier with the initial bivouac in the hut of the South Branch of the Tsей Glacier is described in route 83. Cross the glacier (closed crevasses), passing under the northern slopes of Khitsan peak, and approach the right side of the three central rock spires on the icy slope of Peak Nikolayeva's North Face. From the glacier, cross the bergschrund and ascend 180–200 m up a steep ice-snow slope to the right of the central rock spires (piton belay). Then move left onto a rock shelf on the third spire. From the spire, ascend 140–150 m up a steep ice-snow slope (pitons belay) under the North rock walls of the peak. From here, move right and ascend an 8–10-meter snow-covered wall of moderate difficulty ("live" rocks - piton belay) onto a sloping ice-snow shelf. Continue traversing 100–120 m along the boundary between snow and rocks under the rock walls of the peak to the right and upwards. Then ascend a steep ice-snow slope (piton belay) to a shoulder plateau. The journey from the hut takes 5–6 hours. There's a cairn on the shoulder. From the shoulder, ascend directly up simple, broken rocks in an internal angle. Then move right and upwards along simple rocks on a short buttress and a shelf under an 8–10 m wall. Overcome the wall directly, climbing rocks of above-average difficulty (key point of the route - piton belay), and traverse a slab to reach an internal angle. Ascend rocks of moderate difficulty in the internal angle ("live" rocks) to a plateau on the right side of the buttress.

Fig. 57

1. Ascent to the peak Perednyaya Chotcha (3637 m) via the counterfort of the northern wall — category 4B difficulty (fig. 57)

From Dombay plain by car to the Severny shelter. From the Severny shelter:

• via a log across the Khokel river
• further along the trail on the left side of the Chotcha gorge to the snowy couloir under the northern wall of the Chotcha peak Ascent:
• up the middle of the couloir to its middle part
• then via the "ram's foreheads" and uncomplicated rocks