Shaan-Kaya. "Grafika" Route

Published by Alpinist on May 21, 2018

Today, there is very little space left in the Crimean mountains for interesting and challenging lines. This is especially true for iconic peaks like Shaan-Kaya. Pioneering a new route in such a place is a very responsible task. By taking away the last untouched sections of the wall from future generations, it is essential to minimize our impact on the terrain. More than a year ago, while admiring the gray monolith between "Grishchenko Pravyy" and "Arsenal" on the right side of Shaan-Kaya, I noticed a thin, discontinuous crack crossing the wall diagonally. "It would be great to climb this smooth slab without using a drill." The idea seemed worthy but unrealistic. Still, I took a series of photos of the wall to study at home. Upon enlargement, the relief looked very poor. The crack was repeatedly interrupted, but it was still there. I decided to give it a try, but if I got stuck with extensive drilling, I would retreat. Despite being tired after the May championship, I was eager to start working on the route. The next day after the award ceremony, armed with an excessive amount of anchors, axes, skyhooks, and copperheads, we managed to tear ourselves away from the ground. On the first day, the weather allowed us to climb two pitches. On the second day, around 5:00 PM, we finished the route, fully realizing our idea. Throughout its length, the line is tied to the natural relief. There are no intermediate bolts. No holes were drilled for skyhooks either. The route has the following fixed equipment:

• 2 bolts on the second belay
• a pendulum bolt with a carabiner at the end of the third pitch The remaining belays are on natural protection.

Team Composition

The MGS DSO "Spartak" team was formed in 1961. During 1961-1963, team members completed a series of climbs up to category 5B difficulty. Already in 1963, the team considered it possible to participate in the All-Union team competitions in the class of technically complex ascents. In July 1963, the team completed part of the declared route, but an earthquake forced the group to return. They completed a route on East Dombay-Ulgen via the south wall, which took 1st place in Moscow. The team composition, as per the application submitted to the judging committee, was determined to be 10 people. As a result of training ascents, the following group composition was determined:

• Kavunenko V. D. — Master of Sports of the USSR — leader
• Shataev V. N. — 1st sports category
• Polyakov L. D. — 1st sports category
• Magomedov Kh. K. — 1st sports category

Ascent Form

1. Ascent category: rock climbing
2. Ascent area: Nakhara spur of the Main Caucasian Range
3. Ascent route with indication of peaks, their heights, route complexity (etc., approximately): South wall of Dvuzubka peak, height 3400 m, 5B category of difficulty
4. Ascent characteristics: Route length 820 m, height difference 550–600 m, average steepness 75°, complex sections length 670 m
5. Pitons driven: rock 114, chocks — 47. Ice and bolt pitons.
6. Number of climbing hours 34 h
7. Number of climbing days 3
8. Number of overnight stays and their characteristics: two sitting bivouacs on comfortable ledges

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent Class

• rock

2. Ascent Area

• Western Caucasus, Gvandrinsky region

3. Peak, Route

• Zamok — 3930 m, south-southeast wall, first ascent, 5B cat. diff.

4. Route Characteristics:

• height difference to the summit — 850 m
• wall height difference — 550 m

up. 595 dated 13.11.90 2.4.445 N 34 RSFSR CHAMPIONSHIP IN ALPINISM 1990 6A and/or TECHNICAL CLIMB CLASS REPORT REPORT ON THE ASCENT TO THE SUMMIT OF USHBA SOUTH 4711 m VIA THE BASTIONS OF THE SOUTHWEST WALL (FIRST ASCENT) BY THE TEAM FROM THE SPORTS CLUB "RODINA" OF THE KIROV REGIONAL SPORTS COMMITTEE TEAM LEADER ZHOLOBOV M.P. TEAM COACH MASHKOVTSEV V.I. Sports Club "RODINA": 610006, Kirov, ul. Lepsse, 4A, tel. 30310, 36592. Team Leader: ZHOLOBOV Mikhail Pavlovich, Kirov, ul. Surikova, 9, apt. 54, tel. 42303. Deputy Team Leader: SHABALIN Pavel Eduardovich, 610000, Kirov, ul. Nekrasova, 6A, apt. 36, tel. 41034. Team Coach: MAKOVTSEV Vladimir Ivanovich, Kirov, ul. Lenina, 63/12, apt. 3.