Dubl peak

In the southeastern corner of the Karaugom plateau and the southwestern corner of the Northern branch of the Tsey glacier, at the beginning of the Tsey ridge, above the Tsey-Karaugom pass rise:

• South summit of Dubl peak (4516 m)
• North summit of Dubl peak (4516 m) between which a short ice-snow saddle passes. North of Dubl peak in the Tsey ridge stands a low peak Krasnoflotets. From both summits of Dubl peak to the Northern branch of the Tsey glacier and the Karaugom plateau descend steep rocky edges - walls, separated by wide ice-snow slopes. Dubl peak is well освоен by mountaineers.

117. Dubl peak South (4512 m) via Southwest counterforce, 2B cat. dif. (I. Antonovich, A. Zolotarev, August 4, 1933). Fig. 28. The path from the CSP of the Tsey region (group 4-12 people) to the saddle of the Tsey-Karaugom pass with the initial bivouac in the upper reaches of the Northern branch of the Tsey glacier is described in route 83. On the pass, turn right and approach the ascent of the South summit of Dubl peak. Further, traverse left along the simple southern slope of the South summit, pass:

• the first South counterforce,
• followed by a snow couloir,

36. Dubl peak Yuzhny (combined route, 4A cat. dif.)

From the overnight site below Yuzhny Dubl peak rocks across the bergschrund 300 m up rightwards via broken rocks (250–300 m) to the first cairn near "Camel's Hump". Protection via rock projections. Traverse leftwards-up along a ledge, then up medium-difficulty rocks for 300 m to the second cairn (200 m). Protection via rock projections. From the second cairn

122. South Dubl' Peak — North Peak (combined route by I. Antonovich, category III difficulty, fig. 20, 25). The path from the Tsey region's KSP (group of 4–8 people) to South Dubl' Peak is described in route 117. From South Dubl' Peak, descend along the ice-and-snow ridge, then down the slope to a wide saddle (with a corniche on the right). From the saddle, approach the base of North Peak's ascent. From the saddle, ascend a steep 70–80 m ice-and-snow slope in a couloir, then climb 25–30 m of moderately difficult rock (using piton insurance) to reach the Western ridge of North Peak. Here, turn right and follow the snow-covered, simple to moderately difficult rocks of the ridge to reach North Dubl' Peak. The journey from South Dubl' Peak takes about 1 hour. Descend via the ascent route or through the Karaugom Plateau (see routes 121, 63). The route duration is 3 days.
123. North Dubl' Peak — South Peak (combined route by M. Zvezdkin, category III difficulty, fig. 20, 25). The path from the Tsey region's KSP or the village of Dzanaga (group of 4–8 people) to the initial bivouac on the Western ridge's platforms of Bivouachnaya Peak is described in route 83. From the platforms, traverse the snow plateau of the Central branch of the Karaugom Plateau to approach (watch for hidden crevices) the steep ice-and-snow slope descending from the Tsey ridge's saddle (between North Dubl' Peak on the right and Krasnoflotets Peak on the left). From the plateau, to the left of North Dubl' Peak's western walls and ice fall:

• cross the snow bridge over the bergschrund;
• ascend the steep 400–500 m ice-and-snow slope (beware of avalanches; use piton insurance);
• reach the wide saddle of the ridge. On the saddle (with a corniche to the north), turn right. After crossing the bergschrund on a snow bridge, continue:

122. Dubl pik South — North (combined route by I. Antonovich, category III difficulty, fig. 20, 25). The path from the tourist service center (TSC) of the Tsey region (group of 4–8 people) to the South Dubl pik is described in route 117. From the South Dubl pik, descend along the ice-and-snow ridge, then along the slope to a wide saddle (with a corniche on the right). Along the saddle, approach the base of the North peak's ascent. Then:

• Ascend a steep 70–80-meter ice-and-snow slope in a couloir;
• Overcome 25–30-meter moderately difficult rocks (piton protection) to reach the West ridge of the North peak;
• On the ridge, turn right and traverse simple and moderately difficult snow-covered rocks to reach the North Dubl pik. Approximately 1 hour from the South Dubl pik. Descend via the ascent route or through the Karaugom plateau (see routes 121, 63). The route duration is 3 days.

123. Dubl pik North — South (combined route by M. Zvezdkin, category III difficulty, fig. 20, 25). The path from the TSC of the Tsey region or the village of Dzinaga (group of 4–8 people) to the initial bivouac on the platforms of the West ridge of the Bivouachnaya peak is described in route 83. From the platforms, traverse the snow plateau of the Central branch of the Karaugom plateau (closed crevices) to approach the steep ice-and-snow slope descending from the saddle of the Tsey ridge (between the North Dubl pik on the right and the Krasnoflotets peak on the left).

ROUTE 4B VIA THE NORTH RIDGE R10–R11 120 m 20° II SNOW AND ICE TERRAIN R9–R10 120 m 40° III SNOW AND ICE TERRAIN R8–R9 120 m 30° II SNOW AND ICE TERRAIN R7–R8 60 m 60° III SNOW AND ICE WITH ROCK OUTCROPS R6–R7 60 m 60° III UNSTABLE ROCK R5–R6 60 m 70° III+ ROCK WALLS R4–R5 160 m 70° III, IV UNSTABLE ROCK R3–R4 170 m 60° IV UNSTABLE ROCK

46. ZAROMAT via the Left Buttress of the North Edge (combined route, category 4B difficulty) The path from the end of the Tsey district to the initial bivouac in the hut of the Southern branch of the Tsey Glacier. From the hut:

• departure at 3–4 am;
• cross the Southern branch of the Tsey Glacier across the plateau (closed crevasses);
• approach the steep, second right, ice-snow couloir of the North wall of the Zaromat peak. At the top left above the middle part of the couloir hang ice overhangs. From the plateau, cross over to the bergschrund in the center of the couloir via an avalanche gully. On the right side of the steep ice-snow couloir (rockfall, avalanches, icefall) 200–250 m straight up. Before reaching the left ice overhangs looming over the couloir, exit it to the right onto the rocks of the Left Buttress of the North Edge. Further on simple, heavily destroyed rocks or a snow isthmus — ascent to the ridge of the buttress. From the buttress descend to the right onto a shelf. Walk along the wide snowy shelf upwards to its end. From here, move left–upwards on simple rocks to the ridge of the Left Buttress and approach the ice-snow slope along it. On a steep ice-snow slope 80 m to the right–upwards (rockfall) to the right side of the rock wall of the upper part of the Left Buttress. Bypass the wall on the right. On simple and medium difficulty rocks on the right side of the Left Buttress along the couloir (rockfall and avalanches in the couloir, piton belay) ascend to a site. Bivouac on the site. From the initial bivouac 9–12 hours.

47. Zaramag via the North Buttress and East Ridge (combined route, category 4B difficulty) The path from the CSP of the Tsey area to the initial bivouac in the South Branch hut of the Tsey Glacier. From the hut (departure at 3:00–4:00 a.m.):

• Cross the plateau of the South Branch of the Tsey Glacier (closed crevasses).
• Approach the second, counting from the right, narrow ice-and-snow couloir of the North wall of Zaramag peak.
• At the top, ice seracs of the North wall overhang the middle part of the couloir. From the plateau, via an avalanche gully in the center of the couloir, cross the bergschrund and traverse 100 m left-upwards (rockfall, possible avalanches, ice serac collapses) to approach a small couloir descending from the North Buttress of the East Ridge of Zaramag peak and ending in a narrow shaft with a plug. Turn left at the beginning of the couloir. Via a small inclined ledge, then via steep, above-average difficulty rocks (pitons), ascend to the ridge of the North Buttress. Here, turn right and ascend simple rocks of the North Buttress to a ledge. Along the ledge, 200–250 m upwards via steep, simple, and average difficulty rocks on the right side of the North Buttress under the overhanging walls to a site. From the hut, 3–4 hours. From the site of the I gendarme, standing to the right of the ridge of the buttress, bypass left via steep, simple, and average difficulty rocks on the right side of the upper buttress with an ascent of 200–250 m (pitons) to a site. From the site:
• Via simple, then steep rocks of average and above-average difficulty, an ascent of 200–250 m under the 2nd gendarme.

48. ZAROMAT via North Ridge of Gendarme ZIL and East Ridge (combined route, category 4B) The path from the KSP of the Tsey region to the initial bivouac in the hut of the South branch of the Tsey glacier. From the hut (departure at 3–4 am), cross the plateau of the South branch of the Tsey glacier (crevasse closure) and approach the steep ice-and-snow Left couloir descending to the left of the North Ridge of Gendarme "ZIL". The couloir is overhung by ice seracs. Ascent:

• Overcome the bergschrund from the plateau.
• Ascend 150–180 m up the right side of the Left ice-and-snow couloir, following the rocks on the left side of the North Ridge of Gendarme "ZIL" (possible rockfall, avalanches, and ice serac collapses in the couloir — piton belay).
• Then exit the couloir to the right.
• On the steep ice-and-snow slope on the left side of the North Ridge of Gendarme "ZIL", ascend 100–130 m under a 30–35-meter wall.
• Traverse the wall on moderately difficult rocks.
• Along the boundary between ice and rocks, approach a 30-meter crack-chimney with a plug.

Zarsmag 4B

58. Triangle — Khimik

(combined route by D. Sukhodolsky, category 3B, fig. 5, 6). The path from the Ullutau alpine camp (group of 4-12 people) to the old right-bank moraine of the Azot glacier is described in route 52. From the moraine, turn right and ascend via scree and easy, broken rocks of the couloir to the saddle of the Western ridge of Triangle peak. From the alpine camp, 2.5-3 hours. On the saddle, turn left and ascend 80-100 m via easy rocks of the Western ridge to below a rock wall. From under the wall, traverse several gendarmes via easy, straightforward rocks and scree on the right side of the Western ridge, and then traverse (with belay) across the ice-snow slope to below a rock tower. Traverse the tower along the boundary between the ice-snow slope and rocks, and then ascend to a col below the summit spire. From the col, ascend via steep, straightforward monolithic rocks of the Western ridge's spire to the summit of Triangle.

• From the right-bank moraine: 3-4 hours
• From Ullutau alpine camp: 6-7 hours From Triangle summit, descend via easy rocks of the Eastern ridge to a saddle. Then, traverse along the ice-snow slope on the left side of the wide, gendarme-studded ridge of the long saddle to below a large gendarme, Rock. Traverse the gendarme to the right (with belay), ascending behind it to the ridge, and then follow the straightforward ridge, passing low gendarmes head-on, to below the Trapezium gendarme. Ascend the Trapezium via steep, moderately difficult rocks (with piton belay) of the ridge. From Trapezium, descend via moderately difficult rocks of the ridge to a saddle, and then traverse along the saddle, passing the Small gendarme head-on (with belay), to below the summit tower of Moskovsky Komsomolets. From here, ascend via steep slabs and moderately difficult rocks of the Western ridge (with piton belay) to the summit of Moskovsky Komsomolets. From Triangle, 4-5 hours.