- ZAROMAT via North Ridge of Gendarme ZIL and East Ridge (combined route, category 4B)
The path from the KSP of the Tsey region to the initial bivouac in the hut of the South branch of the Tsey glacier.
From the hut (departure at 3–4 am), cross the plateau of the South branch of the Tsey glacier (crevasse closure) and approach the steep ice-and-snow Left couloir descending to the left of the North Ridge of Gendarme "ZIL". The couloir is overhung by ice seracs.
Ascent:
- Overcome the bergschrund from the plateau.
- Ascend 150–180 m up the right side of the Left ice-and-snow couloir, following the rocks on the left side of the North Ridge of Gendarme "ZIL" (possible rockfall, avalanches, and ice serac collapses in the couloir — piton belay).
- Then exit the couloir to the right.
- On the steep ice-and-snow slope on the left side of the North Ridge of Gendarme "ZIL", ascend 100–130 m under a 30–35-meter wall.
- Traverse the wall on moderately difficult rocks.
- Along the boundary between ice and rocks, approach a 30-meter crack-chimney with a plug.
- After passing the chimney, move 60–70 m on moderately difficult rocks up to the right to a ledge on the North Ridge.
From the ledge, ascend 25–30 m up simple rocks, then exit left onto the ridge and approach the wall. Traverse the wall on rocks of above-average difficulty in the center:
- First, 50–60 m straight up,
- Then 50–60 m up to the left (piton belay).
Further, on heavily broken rocks of the North Ridge with several sections of above-average difficulty, approach the second 60-meter wall, which is overcome directly on rocks of above-average difficulty, with an exit onto the ridge. On the right side of the ridge is a bivouac. 10–12 hours from the initial bivouac.
From the bivouac, having traversed 40–50 m on the slope, ascend the North Ridge. Further on moderately difficult rocks, alternating with snowy ridges of the North Ridge, bypassing all walls and gendarmes on the left, ascend a sharp gendarme. From it, descend left onto the upper plateau of the hanging glacier. On the snowy slope of the glacier, following the rocks on the left slopes of the North Ridge, approach the Central couloir of the summit tower of Gendarme "ZIL". From the glacier, having overcome the bergschrund, on the left side of the couloir, then on moderately difficult rocks, ascend to a snowy ridge and exit onto Gendarme "ZIL". 4–6 hours from the bivouac on the ridge.
From Gendarme "ZIL", make a 35-meter rappel to the saddle of the East Ridge of Zaromat peak. On the wide snowy ridge of the saddle (cornices), approach the ascent. On steep simple and moderately difficult rocks of the ascent.