Balchik-Kaya — 2. “Beatrice”

Massif: Balchik-Kaya. Grade: 5A. Authors: O. Popov, M. Kashirsky Year of route creation: 2012. Route description:

• R0–R1 40 m. Over simple and moderately difficult terrain along the ridge, then reach the ridge. 40 m III R1–R2 50 m. Up the complex wall, then over simpler terrain reach a grassy ledge, from the ledge up to a tree.
  • 5 m V
  • 5 m IV
  • 40 m II R2–R3 55 m. Up and left, approach a crack turning into an inside corner. Up the crack, then the corner. Station under a cornice.

Cherep. 1B.

Follow the trail to the clearing with former mountaineering campsites (scattered with large stones). From the clearing, follow a faint trail towards the rocky scree. From the stones near the river, a rusty, crumbling wall is visible; move in its direction with no clear trail. Approach the rusty, crumbling wall (there's no need to climb into the couloir above it) and move right along it for 30–40 m. A vegetation-filled couloir will appear on the left:

• Put on your harnesses and gear before entering the couloir.
• Move up the couloir through easy rock climbing, with some loose rocks.
• After about 30–40 m, set up station R0 on one of the trees, preferably the left juniper. From R0, you'll see a smoothed wall on the right; R1 is located on a convenient ledge above it. To get to R1 from R0, continue up the couloir onto a crumbling ledge towards a sturdy juniper, marked "М" on the diagram (not to the last tree on the ledge, as some descriptions suggest). From the juniper, move right and you'll see the path to the next trees in the direction of the crumbling rusty corner. Belay from the juniper, lengthen the quickdraw significantly, and move up to the right. Avoid climbing into the rusty, crumbling corner; instead, belay in a crack on the left wall, make a 1 m traverse to the right, and then move up to the ledge with trees. The station is on two new bolted anchors. The rope is rockfall-prone; be cautious. For larger groups, consider setting up an intermediate station on the juniper to avoid being hit by rocks. Climbing grade: 2–3.

New route in the Crimea on the «Zamok» («Castle») mountain: «Zelyony ugol» («Green corner»)

It seemed that the first ascent on Zamok is impossible, as it is one of the most popular peaks in Crimea, and everything that could be done, has already been done. The summit of Zamok (650 m) rises several meters from the upper (old) road Yalta — Sevastopol near the village of Foros. To the left of Zamok is located Mshatka-Kaya mountain, to the right — Maly Kilse-Burun. Once, accidentally looking at the mountain from the road, in the upper left part I noticed an inner corner, slightly overgrown with grass. None of the known to me routes passed through it, and the lower part logically led to the corner. Preliminarily, for warm-up, we climbed the neighboring Geniuasha Shcherbakova route,

Castle Rock — 7

Description prepared by: Max Kostrov and Olga Kostrova Castle Rock, "Sokoliny" route, 6A, F7a+ (or VI, A3), 370 m — Crimea Castle Rock, "Sokoliny" route Photo by: Alexey Osipov, 1999 We all climb and belay on rocks differently. And what is written in the "gray footnotes" should be considered. The "Sokoliny" route was first ascended 20 years ago in 1985 by Yuri Lishayov ("Fantik"). The line of the route beautifully and practically crosses the sheer

Castle — 9

Author: Vladimir Mogila, Odessa

Yuri Lishayev's route "through the cave" 6A, VII+, A2, 360 m

On November 17, Vladimir Mogila with Alexey Zhilin (Odessa) finished "repairing" Yuri Lishayev's ("Fantik") route "Through the cave". "...We did the main work three weeks ago, and this time we put the final touches. We did not alter the route, but only tried to restore it:

• Equipped reliable stations.
• Replaced some old drilled holes' pitons. Removed unnecessary ones.
• Cleaned the route from old pitons and chocks.

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• 10.docx","updated_at":"2025-09-28T05:15:54+0000","description":null} ```

Kilse — Burun — 5.

On the right side of the fourth buttress of the western part of the massif, beyond

The approach begins the same way as for routes #3 and #4, 50 m west of the road signpost "36/18". First, ascend via the trail, and then via simple rocks to a long terrace and proceed along it 150 m to the right under the central part of the fourth buttress. On section R1–R2 — ascend 40 m up the simple rocks of the central part of the buttress (it coincides with route #4) (R1–R2: 40 m, 50°, I). Further, the route passes slightly to the right of "Three Pines" ("Три сосны"). On section R2–R3 — ascend via a cleft turning into an internal corner (R2–R3: 40 m, 50°, I). On section R3–R4 — first 10 m up a sheer cleft under an overhanging wall. It is bypassed on the right via an internal corner and then upwards through it (R3–R4: 20 m, 80°, IV; 20 m, 75°, III). On section R4–R5 — ascend via a bushy internal corner (R4–R5: 45 m, 70°, II). On section R5–R6 — ascend 45 m via an internal corner, which expands in places and turns into a chimney in its upper part, to exit onto the eastern shoulder of the buttress. From it, 10 m along a steep wall onto a terrace. The main part of the route ends here (R5–R6: 45 m, 70°, II; 10 m, 70°, III). Further (section R6–yaila) — exit onto the summit plateau via a gentle gully (R6–yaila: 200 m, 45°, no technical difficulties). The length of the main part of the route is 210 m. The ascent takes 3 hours.

Maly Kilse-Burun — 4

Via the central part of the southern wall through the spalled "Feather", 5A (Y — 40 m) (S. Brynza's itinerary, 1991)

The description of the ascent to the wide rocky ledge under the central part of the southern wall is given in route 3. The initial sections of this route coincide with route 3. On the R2–R3 section, first ascend the slabs to the counterfort, and then follow it (R1–R2: 20 m, 60°, II; 40 m, 75°, IV+). On the R2–R3 section — ascend simple rocks to an internal corner located to the right of a long and narrow spall ("Nashlyopka" or "Feather") (R2–R3: 20 m, 60°, I). On the R3–R4 section — ascend the internal corner, transitioning into a chimney, until you

Kuba-Kaya — 1. “Right to Left”

Difficulty: 5B VI A2 Authors: A. Lav­ri­nen­ko, P. Shvets Year of creation: 2009 Number of pitches: 11 Length: 405 m Time to complete: 6–8 hours Route description: The route goes to the left of the center of the wall along a series of internal corners, bypassing large cornices on the upper part of the wall from the left. The approach to the route is to the left of the lower bastion, through the forest for about 100 meters. R0–R1: 55 m Start on a grey slab, direction towards the trees, then on easy rocks to a large grassy terrace. 10 m V; 45 m II R1–R4: Along an inclined grassy terrace upwards to the right to a belt of rocks. 100 m easy R2–R3: 30 m. Upwards on uncomplicated rocks to a group of trees. Belay station on a large juniper. II R3–R4: 45 m. From the juniper upwards, through a slightly overhanging 10-meter wall onto a ledge, then climbing upwards to the right to a large juniper.

• 10 m VIA2

Kuba­ — Kaya — 2. «Odessa 09»

Massif: Kuba­ — Kaya (662 m) Complexity: 5B VI A2 Author: Lavri­nen­ko A., Tsush­ko T., Kuzmen­ko Kolya Number of sections: 7 Length: 395 m Route description: The route passes to the left of the center of the wall along a series of internal corners, bypassing large cornices on the left in the upper part of the wall. Approach to the route is to the left of the lower bastion, through the forest for about 100 meters. R0­–R1: 55 m. Start along a gray slab, direction towards the trees, then along simple rocks to a large grassy terrace. 10 m V; 45 m II