Ascent Passport

to p. Uglovoy (3900) First Ascent

1. Type of ascent — rock climb. 2. Region of ascent — Kyrgyz range, Golubina lake area
2. Peak "Uglovoy" (conditional name) 3900 m according to NW classification, rock climb route
3. Proposed category of difficulty — 3B. 5. Route characteristics: height difference — 450 m, length — 530 m, including sections of III–IV category of difficulty — 220 m, average steepness — 58°
4. Pitons hammered — 14/2 protection gear — 11/4

Route Description

to peak 3900 m (site "Uglovoy") via NW ridge, cat. III Having left the bivouac located near the Hydrometeorological Station on Golubina Glacier, cross the glacier and approach the route. Section O–I — an inclined, free rock shelf with a slope of 35° is traversed simultaneously with belay on protrusions. A control cairn is located on a small ledge. From the control cairn, go straight up the wall with a slope of 65° — a passage of medium difficulty, 40 m. Convenient belay points. 8–9 pitons per rope. Section 2–3 — an exit to a gendarme — 60 m: the slope increases to 75°, belay points are convenient, rocks are heavily destroyed, also 8–9 pitons per rope. 4 hours from the start of the route. Bypassing the gendarme (section 3–4) along the main shelf with a slope of 40° simultaneously with belay through protrusions. Further, 120 m along a steep wall of medium difficulty with a slope of 85° (in some places up to 90°). Piton belay — up to 10 pitons per rope. From here, moving simultaneously in traverse to the left along destroyed rocks, exit to the summit. 4 hours from the gendarme. Descent along the ridge to the last gendarme (simultaneous movement). From the last gendarme, rappel 60 m to the western side with an exit to the main shelf. Further, to the ice-snow plateau and down the couloir of route 2A to peak 4 IO 7, descend to Golubina Glacier. Recommendations:

• Most of the route is traversed on friction, so it is not recommended to move along the route in bad weather. Note: I. In general, according to the length of sections of category IV, the route deserves category 4A difficulty, however, its relatively small overall length allows recommending it to be classified as 3B.

2. The large number of pitons indicated in the report is explained by the low qualification of the participants (III sports category) and the fact that this ascent was a first ascent.

Report on the First Ascent of the Route to Peak Uchitel via the Eastern Ridge.

Climbing Passport

1. Tian-Shan, Kyrgyz Ala-Too range, Ala-Archa gorge. Peak Uchitel 4550 m. Presumed 2A category of difficulty, first ascent. Route character — ridge. Route height difference — 700 m. Route length — 1700 m.
2. Section lengths: I — 1550 m, II — 150 m,
3. Average steepness: main part of the route — 30°.
4. Pitons left on the route: total — 0;

Ascent Passport

on p. 4265 m.

1. First ascent — I. Kalas
2. Ascent area — Kyrgyz range, Golubina lake area
3. Summit p. 4265 m along the 63 ridge from l. Golubina, ridge route type
4. Proposed category of difficulty — 2A
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 750 m, length of 2 category of difficulty sections — 450 m, average steepness — 42°
6. Pitons hammered: rock — 5 (0); ice — 0
7. Number of walking hours — 6 hours
8. Number of overnight stays — none

Ascent Passport

Peak 4265 m. First Ascent

I. Ascent class — rock 2. Ascent region — Kyrgyz Ala-Too ridge, Golubina lake area 3. Peak 4265 m according to 3rd classification category, route characteristic — ridge 4. Proposed difficulty category — 2B 5. Route characteristic: height difference — 750 m, section length — 600 m 2nd difficulty category, average steepness — 35° 6. Pitons hammered: rock — 6 (0), ice — 0 7. Number of walking hours — 9

MOUNTAINEERING FEDERATION OF KRASNODAR REGION

Report

ON THE FIRST ASCENT TO THE SUMMIT PIK KOCHEVNIKOV 3460 m VIA THE WESTERN RIDGE "A20", CARRIED OUT BY THE TEAM OF THE REGIONAL PUBLIC ORGANIZATION "MOUNTAINEERING FEDERATION OF KRASNODAR REGION" presumably 4B cat. diff. FIRST ASCENT Foygel M. R. Sushko D. S. 2022

Table of Contents

Table of Contents – 2

To the judging panel of the high-altitude and technical class of the PFO Championship 2023

Report

on the ascent to the summit of Baychechekhey 4516 m via the left edge of the central buttress of the western wall, 5A category of complexity (D. Pavlenko's route, 2010), 2nd passage, made by the team of the Ministry of Sports of the Republic of Tatarstan on August 10, 2023. Leader: Grishin Sergey Vasilyevich, CMS Participants:

• Kudryashov Valery Sergeyevich, CMS
• Ogorodnikov Roman Valeryevich, 1st sports category Coach: Kudryashov Valery Sergeyevich, CMS, 1st category

I. Ascent Passport

MOSCOW ALPINISM AND ROCK CLIMBING FEDERATION

Report

On the ascent of the CSKA team named after Demchenko

To the summit 5020 m («working name — Peak Gorin»)

Central Tien Shan, West Kokshaal-Too (41°1′46.12″ N 77°31′34.97″ E) via the South Ridge from the Sarychat glacier First ascent Presumably 2A category of difficulty Zaryaev V.V. + 2

Participants of the ascent

MOSCOW ALPINISM AND ROCK CLIMBING FEDERATION

Report

On the ascent of the CSKA team named after Demchenko

To the peak Gronki (Bolshaya Belaya) 5050 m. Central Tien Shan, Western Kokshaal-Too

via the northern ridge through the peaks:

• Beggar
• Ekstazi
• Yurnos Presumably 4A category of difficulty. First ascent Grigoryev D.R. - team leader

ST. PETERSBURG FEDERATION OF ALPINISM, ROCK CLIMBING AND ICE CLIMBING

Report

On the first ascent of the team a/c "Gorniak" to the peak Severny Svetgar 3510 m

via the North-Eastern spurs of the South-Eastern ridge. Presumably 2B cat. diff.

Climbing Passport

1. Central Caucasus, Svaneti, section 2.4.1 of the route classifier for mountain peaks
2. Svetgar Severny 3510 m. Via the North-Eastern spurs of the South-Eastern ridge.
3. Proposed 2B cat. diff. first ascent.
4. The route is rocky (summer).
5. Height difference: 510 m