9. Tsukhgar­ty via the South­ern Counter­fort and East­ern Ridge (com­bi­ned route, 2A cat. dif., Fig. 2, 4). From the “Nakhashbi­ta” meadow (group of 4–8 peo­ple) up­wards to the left (north-east) along grassy slopes, then scree to the South­ern Tsukhgar­ty glacier, which flows down from the Tsukhgar­ty massif be­tween its South­ern Ridge and South­ern Counter­fort. From here, straight up the snow slope with sim­ple rock out­crops (pro­tec­tion) of the South­ern Tsukhgar­ty glacier. In the up­per part of the glacier, where it widens, turn right and:

• via sim­ple rock out­crops, al­ter­nat­ing with ice and snow slopes (pro­tec­tion)
• then via sim­ple rocks and scree as­cend to the South­ern Counter­fort. Here, turn left and via sim­ple rocks and scree of the long South­ern Counter­fort

Fig. 29 125. Bubis (4428 m) via the North-Eastern slope (ice and snow route, category 2B, fig. 29). The path from the CSP of the Tsey region (group of 4-20 people) to the initial bivouac on the upper plateau of the Northern branch of the Tsey glacier is described in route 83. From the bivouac (closed crevices) approach the middle of the north-eastern ice and snow slope of Bubis along the glacier. From the glacier, overcoming the bergschrund using a snow bridge, ascend the occasionally steep ice and snow slope (many open and closed crevices) between two groups of ice falls located to the left and right of the middle part of the slope, in the direction of the saddle of the massif between the summit of Bubis on the right and a snow dome on the left - until reaching the main ridge of the summit. Depending on the condition of the slope, it is possible to ascend to the main ridge of the summit to the left of the snow dome. On the south-eastern ridge of the summit, turn right and ascend along a simple, gently sloping, wide, occasionally narrow, long ice and snow ridge (cornices), then along simple, ruined rocks to the summit of Bubis. Duration:

• From the initial bivouac on the plateau: 4-6 hours. Descent is via the ascent route. Features:

V. Burjula via Eastern Edge, 4A cat. diff.

R0–R2 100 m 35° 2 R2–R4 120 m 40° 3 R4–R6 100 m 40–45° 3 R6–R8 150 m 45–50° 4 R8 180 m 40° 3

NORTH PEAK DOUBLE 5A

VIA THE EASTERN RIDGE SOUTH NORTH R15 R14 R13 R12

Dubl peak

In the southeastern corner of the Karaugom plateau and the southwestern corner of the Northern branch of the Tsey glacier, at the beginning of the Tsey ridge, above the Tsey-Karaugom pass rise:

• South summit of Dubl peak (4516 m)
• North summit of Dubl peak (4516 m) between which a short ice-snow saddle passes. North of Dubl peak in the Tsey ridge stands a low peak Krasnoflotets. From both summits of Dubl peak to the Northern branch of the Tsey glacier and the Karaugom plateau descend steep rocky edges - walls, separated by wide ice-snow slopes. Dubl peak is well освоен by mountaineers.

117. Dubl peak South (4512 m) via Southwest counterforce, 2B cat. dif. (I. Antonovich, A. Zolotarev, August 4, 1933). Fig. 28. The path from the CSP of the Tsey region (group 4-12 people) to the saddle of the Tsey-Karaugom pass with the initial bivouac in the upper reaches of the Northern branch of the Tsey glacier is described in route 83. On the pass, turn right and approach the ascent of the South summit of Dubl peak. Further, traverse left along the simple southern slope of the South summit, pass:

• the first South counterforce,
• followed by a snow couloir,

Technical Plan for Ascending Dubl'-pik Peak (4580 m) via the Eastern Ridge

Category of Difficulty: 3A category of difficulty (according to technical description) Peaks:

• Dubl'-pik Peak (4580 m) (southern)
• Dubl'-pik Peak (northern)
• Dubl'-pik Peak (N-2) (C) Route Sections (main, from "Dubl'-pik southern" peak):
• R0: 40 m II+ snow

V. Zaromag via the left buttress of the northern edge, cat. 4B

BOL. SH. I ZH. IV ZH. Eastern ridge ZH. «ZIL» Saddle Western ridge VCSPS shoulder

V. Zardmag via North face of the "Zil" Gendarme and East ridge

Route difficulty category: 4B

• R14
• R13
• Saddle
• R12
• R11
• R10
• R9

E. KARAUGOM EASTERN PEAK VIA THE WESTERN RIDGE, Cat.4A diff.

The diagram shows:

• Western Peak
• Eastern Peak
• Shoulder
• North-Eastern ridge
• Saddle (two)
• Big Gendarme (BIG G.)
• Karaugom plateau

5 Imakouk

4533 m Hovebka №2 4350 m R19

• R17
• R18 R16
• R14­–R15
• R12­–R8