Passport

1. Altai, Severo-Chuysky Ridge, Karakbak gorge, 1:2 scale
2. The summit of Geroev Altaya via the center of the North-West slope, height 3511 m (GPS measurement).
3. Proposed category — 4A, first ascent.
4. Route type — ice
5. Elevation gain: 480 m; length — 1100 m. Average steepness of the route — 35–45 degrees. Length of sections with 5th category difficulty — 80 m.
6. Number of pitons used on the route: ice screws — 24.
7. Team's travel time: 6 h 30 min from the glacier to the summit;

REPORT

ON THE ASCENT TO THE SUMMIT OF MONT BLANC DU TACUL VIA THE NW SLOPE "CLASSIC" 2A CATEGORY OF COMPLEXITY BY THE TRAINING DEPARTMENT OF AK POLITEKHNIK UNDER THE GUIDANCE OF DUPLIAC A.K. August 2, 2018

I. ASCENT DOCUMENTATION

M21. Gvandra East — Main (combined route, 3A cat. of diff., p/p L. Chasovnikovs, 1937) See routes M14, M16, M18–M20.

• when descending from the Eastern peak via route M16, it should be taken into account that the description is made in the opposite direction, and all gendarmes will be overcome not on ascent, but on descent;
• in bad weather or in fog, descending from the Main peak, one can lose orientation and go to the right earlier from the upper plateau of Gvand — dry. There is a danger of going to very steep slopes with large crevices and, most importantly, to the southern slopes of the ridge from Gvandra Main. These slopes, going in the direction of the False Myrdy pass, end in a hanging icefall. To