Foros kant. Telezhenko, 2B cat. sl. A strong key rope requires the leader's ability to climb and belay on rocks not less than F 5 c–6 a. This means that if there isn't one, then it's better not to go. To fail to climb and abandon the route is one thing. To fall off and ... is another.

By the Eastern Edge (ПК), 2B (V. Kozinogo route, 1973)

The route goes through a wide internal corner that vertically cuts through the entire wall. The internal corner leads to a lowering in the ridge between the peaks of Forosky Kant and Mshatka-Kaya and serves as a conditional boundary between them. From the road, near the alpinist camps:

• 200 m up along the trail
• then 50 m along simple rocks under a reddish overhanging wall located slightly to the right of the wide internal corner (R0: 250 m, 20–40, no category). On the R3–R4 section — first up the slab, and then up and to the right 20 m (R3–R4: 40 m, 70–60, II–III). On the final section of the route — first left and up 25 m to a small couloir. From it, up to a large, overgrown with bushes, couloir. Along it, 25 m up to the summit plateau (R4 — summit: 120 m, 50–60°, I–II). Variation: On the R1–R2 section — from the grotto up, first along the right side of the internal corner, and then along smooth slabs to a long horizontal shelf. (R1–R2: 40 m, 70°, III+). The length of the main part of the route is about 240 m. Time to complete the route is 2–3 hours. P.S. The full name of this route is not "Right Edge" as some people think, but "P — — — and kitten". This is not a literary name given by the first ascenders — Dnipropetrovsk students who got into trouble on this route.

Author: Alexander Lavrinenko, Odessa

Forosskiy kant. Routes of the "Green corner"

At the end of January, we (Alexander Lavrinenko and Sergey Pugachev) climbed a new route in the left part of the Forosskiy kant, along the left edge of the "Green corner". The route looks so logical that it's surprising it wasn't climbed earlier. In the very corner, human tracks are visible, but whether it was completed to the top - I don't know; at least, I saw 2 rappel loops. The route starts at the same point as the left variant of the Kant, and goes left; the 2-grade route goes even further left. 125 ± 2 m, 5B, TD "along the left edge" Pugachev, Lavrinenko 35A TD - Timofeev's route

Chelebi — 8

Author: Alexander Lav­ri­nen­ko, Odessa Che­le­bi, Crimea. Descriptions of alpinist routes The Che­le­bi massif is located in the western part of the Main ridge of the Crimean mountains, between the "Bai­dar­skie vo­ro­ta" pass and the Il'­yas-Ka­ya mountain. Relative height 200 m, absolute height 600 m above sea level. Despite the relatively low height, 5 routes of 5th and 6th category of difficulty pass through the central part of the wall. The routes are very popular (e.g., Bershov's route, there are several ascents per day). Descent from the wall is possible both from the left and the right. The left path (if looking towards the sea) is shorter:

• Follow the yayla along the cliff towards the Bai­dar­skie vo­ro­ta for about 600–700 m.
• Near the descent couloir, there is a group of trees.
• Down the steep scree, then right along the wall.

Shaan-Kaya — 11

Author: Alexander Lavrinenko, Odessa Alexander Lavrinenko Shaan-Kaya is located in the Alupka area. It is not part of the Southern ridge, but is jutting out to the sea, in front of the Alupka wall. The wall height difference is about 250 m. In the central part, the wall overhangs. There are 6 routes laid on the wall (Note: as of December 2001, 8 routes have been completed), all 6B category. To get under Shaan-Kaya, you need to:

• Reach Alupka "Pitomnik" stop

Shaan-Kaya — 13

Author: Alexander Maximenia, Minsk Crimea. Shaan-Kaya. Solo Shaan-Kaya is located not far from Alupka. The mountain rises 250–300 m in the middle of a pine forest. The landscape is unreal and mesmerizing. Under the wall, there are piles of huge boulders. Among this chaos, there's a cozy grotto where I settled and became a caveman for this week. March 12. Arrived in Crimea. By evening, I reached the mountain and settled in the grotto near the wall, which was not visible in the fog. March 13. The weather improved. The sun is shining. I'm testing my gear and nerves on the old bolted route in the center of the wall. The route was drilled about forty years ago by Yalta residents when attempting to pass the wall, and it's well-preserved for its age. After 70 m, it ends, and I rappel down. March 14. Climbed to the second belay on Hyperborea. Checking every move, I creep up the wall — not just moving, but literally creeping. There's no one around, and every wrong decision can have unpredictable consequences. March 15. Ascended via the fixed rope and climbed further

Sha­an-Ka­ya — 3

Author: Alex­ander Za­ko­lod­ny, Khark­ov.

2012 © — new route on Sha­an-Ka­ya, 6A

Sha­an-Ka­ya is that, lately: base jumpers, rope access... attracts unusual mountains. Long winter, r line on the summit, after which... goal of Grishchenko to me with visiting the museum since the times of Zenit. As a partner I g, helped me to dry. The route passes left. On the march pulls! In these rock climbers, these people... grief and around looked straight crack left, gi m-t. or, as later i shlyambura). l initiative and

Author: Alexey Shelkhakov, Simferopol Scheduled cleaning of the "Samurai" route 6A, 6B, A3 On January 13, the team of Popov — Shelkhakov carried out a scheduled cleaning of their "Samurai" route (6B — A3) on the Shaan-Kaya massif, removing the pitons and poorly fixed temporary bolts left by other climbers. We also identified the points where our route intersects with the climbing route "Atlant-M" 8b, 250 m, which was completed in early autumn 2004 by the team led by A. Vedenmeer. Since we were unable to find a diagram of this route online, we had to determine the situation on site. The previously published photographs of Atlant-M did not indicate the neighboring routes, and accordingly, did not specify the points of intersection with the existing mountaineering routes on the massif. The inspection showed that Atlant-M intersects Samurai at an acute angle between R3–R4, which significantly reduces its difficulty. In its upper part, this route intersects Samurai again near the ledges, which is generally insignificant. On the final section, before reaching the plateau, it runs very close to it. In light of these circumstances, we decided to remove the bolts of the Atlant-M route that are located within the corridor of the Samurai route, but only those that reduce its difficulty — specifically, the section between R3–R4. We removed two bolts:

• One of them was driven 40 cm away from ours and can be replaced by it.
• Further, there is a crack suitable for pitons, where one can be fully and reliably secured, thus replacing the second removed bolt. This is the minimum of what was possible; Atlant-M remains passable. The diagrams of the routes provided by us may contain inaccuracies, but it's still better than nothing.

Shaan-Kaya — 6

Author: Alexander Lav­rin­enko, Odes­sa Alexander Lav­rin­enko Shaan-Kaya is located in the Alupka area. It is not part of the Southern ridge, but is pushed forward to the sea, in front of the Alupka wall. The wall height difference is about 250 m. In the central part, the wall overhangs. 6 routes are laid along the wall (Note: as of December 2001, 8 routes were climbed), all are 6th category of difficulty. To get to Shaan-Kaya, you need to:

• Get to the Alupka "Pit­om­nik" stop
• From it, go up the road

Shaan-Kaya — 7

Author: Kirill Gostev, Yalta Shaan-Kaya, "Pianissimo" route (6B extra F6b/6c, A4, 280 m) The struggle with the mountain is a struggle with oneself; if you're a hero, your path isn't simple!!! Everything started cheerfully and enthusiastically, but gradually the exclamations of "Hooray!!!" on the prolonged overhang turned into a state that fully corresponds to the name of the route — "Pianissimo", only occasionally did falling boulders with a loud thud stir our consciousness. In general, everything turned out great. Thanks to our support group:

• Sergey Voshchanov,
• Alexander Rushkovsky (our altitude operator),
• Evgeny Meshkov. "The Guardian of Secrets" and chronicler of Shaan-Kaya's history, Yuri Borisovich Burlakov, periodically visited the mountain to observe us. During rare meetings with him, he wished us success and infected us with the same enthusiasm and fervor that, probably, accompanied the first conquerors of Shaan-Kaya, led by Yuri Borisovich.