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Route Description: Ю гребню
SSummitMateReport on the ascent of the Demchenko CSKA team to the summit 3652 m (Peak TK MISiS) along the southern ridge, category of complexity 2A.
MOSCOW ALPINISM AND ROCK CLIMBING FEDERATION
Report
On the ascent of the Demchenko CSKA team
To the summit 3652 m. Working name — peak TK MISiS (TK MISiS)
Central Caucasus, Koshtan-krest ridge. (43°4′5.09″ N 43°17′16.41″ E) via the southern ridge First ascent. Presumably 2A category of difficulty. Galimzyanov T.R. — Zaryaev V.V. 2016
Ascent participants
Description of the ascent route to the summit with a detailed analysis of technical difficulties and tactical features.
Fig. 20
Route Description: В гребню
SSummitMateDescription of the 4A category route to the top of Vostochnyy Doppakh via the Eastern ridge, including a detailed description of the path, possible bivouacs, and the time taken to complete individual sections.
Fig. 8
31. Doppakh East via Eastern ridge (combined route by V. Popov,
category 4A, fig. 8).
The path from the "Nakhashbita" meadow (group of 4–8 people) to the Doppakh pass is described in
route 17. A bivouac is possible at the pass.
At the pass, turn left and exit onto the rocks of the Eastern ridge of the East Doppakh peak.
Through rocks of medium difficulty with short sections of above-medium difficulty:
- left - upwards to a wide chimney with two large boulders.
- Through rocks on the left side of the wide chimney, ascend to a talus shelf above the
Route Description: С кф. СВ гребня
SSummitMateAscent to the summit Glavnaya Laboda via the North buttress and North-east ridge, a combined route of 4A category of complexity.
Fig. 18
65. Laboda Glavnaya via North контрфорс and North-East ridge
(combined route by E. Batukaev, 4A cat. dif., Fig. 18).
From the “Nakhashbita” meadow (group of 4–8 people) descend to the Khares River and near
the confluence of the Orsdon River, cross to the left bank of Khares. From the river, ascend
along the steep grassy slope of the gully, which gradually narrows into a narrow couloir with
steep rocky walls (rockfall possible).
From the upper part of the couloir, traverse simple rocks and ledges to the right onto the wide
talus ridge of the North контрфорс of the Laboda massif. Further along the talus and simple
Route Description: с юга по ЮЗ гребню
SSummitMateAscent of Main Nakhashbita via Southwest Ridge from the South, a combined route of 3A category of complexity.
Fig. 6
19. Nakhshbita Glavnaya via the Southwest Ridge from the south (A. Chernyaev's combined route, category III, fig. 6).
The path from the "Nakhshbita" meadow (group of 4–8 people) to the bivouac on the saddle of the Nakhshbita massif is described in route 18.
From the site, traverse 120 meters along the snowy ridge (cornice) to the saddle and reach the Southwest Ridge of Glavnaya Nakhshbita. Ascend 70–80 meters along the snow-covered, possibly icy, moderately difficult rocks of the Southwest Ridge to a rocky outcrop.
Bypass the outcrop:
- Traverse 120–140 meters to the right along a steep ice-snow slope along the rocks (piton belay) on the right side of the ridge. Then:
- Turn left.
- Ascend along the snow-covered rocks, then along a steep ice-snow slope (belaying) to the Southwest Ridge.
A description of the ascent route to the summit, including technical information and an illustration with characteristic terrain features.
Fig. 12