LYALVER, 4350 m, via NE ridge (from N. Tsanner Pass), Cat. 2B diff. Initial bivouac — on the edge of the rocky side of the Lower Tsanner icefall (point 3). From N. Tsanner Pass, move along the snowy NE ridge, to the right of the ridge line, to a rocky outcrop. Leaving the outcrop on the right, ascend 200 m up a snowy-icy slope with a slope angle of up to 45°, reaching the rocks. Ascend the rocks 300–350 m to a snowy ridge and continue up the ridge to the summit. From the pass, 3–4 hours. Descent via the ascent route — 2 hours.

USSR ALPINISM CHAMPIONSHIP 1982. ICE-SNOW ASCENTS CLASS.

Report

REPORT ON THE ASCENT TO THE SUMMIT OF MIZHIRGI EAST, 4928 m, VIA THE CENTER OF THE NORTH FACE BY THE RS "AVANGARD" TEAM, TRUD SPORTS SOCIETY. Team Leader: V.I. Grishchenko. Team Coach: L.V. Kensitsky. RS "AVANGARD", TRUD Sports Society, Kiev, ul. Volodarskogo, 1. Tel. 74-40-22. Team Leader V.I. Grishchenko: 25205, Kiev, ul. Peschanaya, 28/32, apt. 46. Work Tel. 44-10-65, Home Tel. 71-08-74. Coach L.V. Kensitsky: Uzhgorod, ul. Shumnaya, 22/23. Tel. 90-51, ext. 3-53. The heights of the summit and the start of the route were determined using a map; the heights of the bivouac sites were determined visually and by the number of ropes climbed.

Profile of the wall from the left

Photo taken on August 16, 1981, at 11:00, using Industar-70 lens, distance to object 4.5 km, N 4, H 4500.

Description of the ascent route to Peak Mira (4400 m) via the North Counterfort - Category III difficulty. The starting point of the route can be found in the description for Gerta-bashi peak from Ullu-Auz glacier via Category 1B route. From the overnight stay in the Trud pass hollow:

• to the base of the North Counterfort of Peak Mira;
• from the plateau through the bergschrund and 30-35 m up the ice-snow slope to the start of the rocks;
• 30-40 m up the cleft to exit onto the left side of the ridge;
• further, 30-35 m up rocks of moderate difficulty to reach the first rocky ascent;
• 25-30 m up the snowy ridge, bypassing the rocky headland on the right, and up the snowy slope to below the second rocky ascent;
• up rocks of moderate difficulty to reach the sharp snowy ridge, with rocky outcrops in its middle and end sections suitable for belaying;
• the snowy ridge gives way to a steep icy slope, with rocky outcrops on the left;

Fig. 16

Sella Pass

Here is the original image: and here are the different crops of this image to help you see better, use these only as hints:

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — technical.
2. Ascent area — Central Caucasus, Bezengi gorge.
3. Semenovsky Peak (4050 m) from the west via hanging glacier.
4. Route type — combined, sections determining the complexity category — ice.
5. Proposed complexity category — 2B category.
6. Route characteristics. Elevation gain — 1170 m, length 2325 m, length of sections 3–4 category — 875 m, average steepness of main difficulty sections 33° (2880–3680).
7. Pitons hammered: rock — 1, ice — 16.
8. Number of climbing hours — 10.
9. There were no overnight stays on the route.

Semenovsky Peak via NW spur 3A

From the Bezengi Glacier, above where the 3rd stream flowing from the SW cirque of Dykh-Tau meets the glacier, ascend via avalanche debris, then along a dry riverbed and a grassy-scree slope to the right of the spur. Traverse the 'ram's foreheads' to the right and above them, left along rocky ledges onto the ridge of the spur, about 1 hour from the glacier. Along the ridge on moss-covered solid rocks with simultaneous belay on outcrops and rock pitons for 1.5–2 hours. Further: along an 80–100 m scree slope, bypassing a 'gendarme - camel' to the left, 30 m along a simple ridge and another 60–80 m on scree. Then: 60 m along slabs to the left of the ridge with piton belay and another 30 m along a heavily destroyed ridge to a col before the final Semenovsky Peak, (4050) steep ascent of the rocky ridge. From here, 20 m to the left (caution: unstable rocks, possible ice) and 10 m up a wall (piton) onto the edge of the northern snow-ice slope of the summit. 200 m along a 'pocket' between the snowy slope and rocks, 150 m along a gentle snow-ice ridge (attention - belay via ice screws) and along a snowy slope to the SW ridge, 80–100 m to the left to the summit. 8–10 hours from the glacier. Descent along the S ridge according to description 1. Hazardous places: on the rocky section of the spur - heavily destroyed rocks, rockfall hazard, on the pre-summit ridge - possible ice.

Ascent to Ullu-Auz-Bashi peak via Kyundyum-Mizhyrgi pass.

Ullu-Auz-Bashi peak (4679 m) is located in a branch of the lateral ridge, separating the basins of Dumala and Mizhyrgi rivers. The ascent to Ullu-Auz-Bashi via Kyundyum-Mizhyrgi pass is classified as category III.

Route description.

Day 1.

Day 1. From "Bezengi" tourist center, the path goes along the left-bank moraine of Mizhyrgi glacier until the trail disappears and the moraine descends to the glacier level (approximately one and a half hours of walking). Then, you need to reach the glacier and ascend along its middle part to the first step of Kyundyum-Mizhyrgi icefall. The first step is traversed on its right side along the most gentle ice slope. It is not recommended to approach the slopes of Mizhyrgi due to possible snow avalanches, and after passing the first step, you need to quickly move up to the left to the left edge of the second step of the icefall. The lower part of the second step of the icefall is bypassed (on the left) along the talus (50–60 m), then the path goes to the right and leads to the ice above the steep ice slope. Here, crampons are usually put on. The path continues:

• straight up the icefall, approximately 20–50 m from its left edge;
• numerous crevices are filled with serac fragments and can be passed without difficulty.

fig. 3 5. Galdor Main via South Ridge (combined route by A. Alexandrova, 4A category of complexity, fig. 3). The path from the "Nakhashbita" meadow (group of 4-8 people) to the moraine leading to the Galdor glacier is described in route 1. From the moraine, traverse right and upwards along the talus slopes to approach a wide couloir descending southwest from the South Ridge of Galdor Main. From here, ascend a wide, gradually narrowing, steep snow-ice 600-700-meter couloir (rockfall possible) that becomes talus in the upper part, to beneath the rock walls of the South Ridge. The ascent includes:

• 20-30 m of steep 'sheep's foreheads' (loose rocks - piton protection);
• then simple slabs with snow sections to a 'South' ridge platform. The platform serves as the initial bivouac. From the "Nakhashbita" meadow, it takes 5-6 hours. From the platform, turn left and follow the simple 'South' ridge to approach a rock step. Ascend 120-140 m of rocks of above average difficulty (loose rocks, piton protection) up the left side of the ridge to the step.

3. Maly Galdor via the Western Ridge (combined route, category II difficulty). The path from the "Nakhashbita" meadow (group of 4–12 people) to the platforms near the black rock is described in route 1. From the platforms, ascend via a potentially snow-covered scree-filled couloir towards the saddle between Sredniy and Maly Galdor. In the middle part of the couloir, exit it and proceed 200–250 m upwards along the scree shelves and rocky outcrops on its right side. Then, ascend a steep 80–100-meter ice-and-snow slope of the couloir (risk of rockfall — use protection) to reach the right side of the ridge saddle between Maly Galdor on the right and Sredniy on the left. At the saddle, turn right and exit onto the rocks of Maly Galdor's Western Ridge. Continue along the straightforward, occasionally steep ridge rocks, overcoming small rock formations head-on (the large rock formation can be bypassed on the right with protection), to ascend Maly Galdor. The ascent from the platforms near the black rock takes 3–4 hours. The descent follows the ascent route. Source:

• Naumov A. F. Karagom, Digoriya, Tsey (Central Caucasus), M., "Fizkultura i sport", 1976.