PASSPORT

1. Climbing category — technical
2. Climbing region — Tian Shan, Terskey Ala-Too range.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route: Jigit, 5170 m, via the center of the large triangle of the North face.
4. Difficulty category — 6
5. Route characteristics: route length — 940 m, height difference from the bergschrund to the ridge — 870 m, length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — 515 m, average steepness of the wall — 70°
6. Pitons hammered: rock — 64, chocks — 54, ice screws — 37.
7. Team's travel hours: 24 hours and 2 days.
8. Number of bivouacs and their characteristics: 1 sitting bivouac, carved in rock covered with ice.

I. Climbing class — technical. 2. Climbing area — Central Tien Shan (Karakol) 3. Climbing route — p. Dzhigit 5170 via the triangle of the northern wall (Sharashanidze). 4. Difficulty category — 6B 5. Route description: elevation gain — 110 m (to the ridge) average steepness — 68° average steepness of the complex section — 85° length of the complex section (length of the section with 5–6 cat. diff.) — 900 m route length — 1200 m (to the ridge)

Ascent Passport

1. Class — technical
2. Karakol region, Terskey-Alatau ridge
3. Peak Jigit (5170), center of the large triangle of the north wall
4. Route 6B cat. diff.
5. Height difference — 1350 m Length of sections 5–6 cat. diff. — about 1000 m. Average steepness — 76°
6. Pitons driven — 156 pcs. ice screws — 7 pcs., chocks, loops — 32 pcs.
7. Number of climbing hours (first climber) — 32 h

D.B. Sharashenidze

Center of the big triangle of the North wall

(Report on the first ascent) Team captain MS USSR Sharashenidze D.B. Team coach MS USSR Kartvelishvili G.I. Tbilisi – 1976

Tactical plan of the ascent

The tactical plan was made taking into account the specifics of the area, characterized by complex meteorological conditions. Reconnaissance confirmed that the route is a monolithic wall of great steepness, and there are practically no places for overnight stays in a tent. Therefore, the tactics of passing this route had to be fundamentally different, since hanging overnight stays during a long ascent period greatly exhaust the climber's strength. The main difficulties presented by the wall were as follows:

1. Transportation of cargo on the route.
2. Organization of reliable and safe overnight stays without a tent.