центру кара С стены
Mixed6А5,170 m
Route Description: центру кара С стены
Description of the passage of a 6B category route through the center of the Northern wall of Jigit peak in Tian Shan by a team of climbers from Magnitogorsk in 1995.
- Class of technical ascents
- Tian Shan, Karakol gorge, Terskey Ala-Too ridge
- Peak Dzhigit, center of the North wall
- Route 6B cat. diff. (Vakurin)
- Route length — 1415 m Length of the wall part of the route — 1095 m, length of sections 5-6 cat. diff. — 435 m, including 6 cat. diff. — 95 m
- Height difference of the wall part of the route — 970 m
- Average steepness of the wall part of the route — 62°
- Pitons driven: ice, rock placements, bolted, skyhooks
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Route Description: центру кара С стены
Technical ascent description of 6A category complexity to Jigit peak (5170 m) via the center of the north face.
- Climbing type — technical.
- Climbing area — Tian Shan, Terskey Ala-Too.
- Peak, its height, ascent route — p. Dzhigit, 5170 m, via the center of the N wall (V. Vakurin's route, 83).
- Difficulty category — 6B.
- Route characteristics — height difference 1120 m, length — 2050 m, length of 6B difficulty sections — 140 m.
- Protection:
- rock anchors: 97
- ice screws: 66
- placed nuts: 20.
- Total climbing hours — 39.
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Route Description: центру кара С стены
Description of the passage of a 6B category route on the northern wall of Peak Dzigit in Kyrgyz Ala-Too in 1985 by a team led by E. Vinogradsky.
PASSPORT
- Technical class
- Kyrgyz Ala-Too
- Peak Dzhigit, center of the north face
- 6th category of difficulty
- Elevation gain: 1004 m, length 1165 m. Length of sections 5–6 cat. diff. — 526 m. Average steepness of the route — 64° "lower bastion" — 76° "upper bastion" — 71°
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Route Description: центру кара С стены
Ascent to Jigit Peak via the center of the North wall glacier, category 4.6 difficulty, description of the route and tactical actions of the team.
- Technical class
- Terskey Ala-Too, Karakol gorge
- Jigit peak via the center of the North wall
- 6B category of complexity, second ascent
- Height difference: 1120 m, length of the wall section of the route to the ridge 1125 m, length of sections 5–6 category of complexity 750 m, average steepness of the main part of the route 77°
- Pitons driven: | rock | bolt | nuts | ice screws | | :--: | :--: | :--: | :------: | | 81/21 | 0/0 | 76/25 | 26/4 |
- Climbing hours: 29 and days 2.2
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Route Description: центру кара С стены
Description of the route to Peak Djugit via the north wall, 6th category of difficulty, first ascent made by Vakurin's team in 1983.
Passport
- Technical class.
- Terskey Ala-Too, Karakol gorge.
- Peak Jigit, via the center of the north face's kar.
- Proposed 6th category of difficulty, first ascent.
- Elevation gain: 1220 m. Total route length 1565 m, length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty 715 m.
- Pitons hammered in: | Category | Hammered in | Left behind | | :--------- | ----------: | ----------: | | Rock | 132 | 37 |
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