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SummitMateSSummitMate
May 8, 2025
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Description of the first ascent of Trident 4500 m peak via the North Wall, category 5A in Tian-Shan.

Climbing Passport

  1. Region — Tian-Shan, Kyrgyz Ala-Too, Ak-Sai valley
  2. Peak — Trezubets 4500 m, right couloir, N side, 5A cat.
  3. Proposed — 5A cat., first ascent
  4. Route type — combined
  5. Route description: elevation gain — 560 m, route length — 820 m, length of 5th cat. sections — 470 m, average slope — 55°, main part 65°
  6. Equipment left on the route: total 2 rappel rings. Used stationary pitons — 0, removable pitons — 0. Total IT used — 0
  7. Total climbing time — 14:30, days — 1
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Description of the R1-R2 section passage of the route by Denis Prokofiev with photos of key moments.

Passage of the R1–R2 section. Denis Prokofyev. R1–R2. Approach to the section R2–R3 Taken from the stance on the R2–R3 section. The photo shows the beginning of the R2–R3 section.

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Description of the first ascent of Trident 4500 m peak via the North Wall, category 5A in Tian Shan.

Ascent Passport

  1. Region — Tian-Shan, Kyrgyz Range, Ak-Sai gorge
  2. Peak — Trident 4500 m, right couloir, N face, 5A
  3. Proposed — 5A category of difficulty, first ascent.
  4. Route type — combined
  5. Route characteristics: elevation gain — 560 m. route length — 820 m. length of 5th category sections — 470 m. average steepness — 55°, main part — 65°
  6. Left on the route: total 2 rappel rings. Used stationary pitons — 0, removable pitons — 0. Total usage of
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