Appendix No. 2 to the Unified Requirements for the Report for Classification REPORT ON THE ASCENT OF PIK VILSA VIA THE NORTH-WEST RIDGE ROUTE, 5A CATEGORY OF COMPLEXITY by a team from RSO-Alania from 3:00 to 5:00 September 2024

I. Ascent Passport

Counter traverse + Φ Rock with piton 40 m, 80° V 60 m, 65° IV+ 8

151

28. VILS Peak via the Northwest Ridge /combined route, cat. 5A/ From the base camp in the direction of the Green hill on the moraine of the Skaaz glacier to the point where you turn left into the couloir leading under the Vils wall. The landmark is the top of the wall, which has a characteristic trapezoidal shape. Follow the scree into the couloir, then follow the snow, keeping to the right side of the couloir. (The couloir is rockfall-prone) walk on the rocks to the right, and higher up on the snow (40°, 200–250 m) to the narrowing of the couloir opposite the rocky ridge with gendarmes leading under the peak wall. Cross the couloir with an avalanche gully (belay via ice axe) to the rocky ridge. First control point: straight up the ridge rocks to the "gendarmes". Overcome the "gendarmes" head-on, descend through the cleft down into the couloir. Then, on the left side of the couloir, bypassing the gendarmes. In the couloir, there is flow ice (50°, piton belay). To the right along the scree rocks. Then bypass the gendarmes on the left along the ice (step cutting, piton belay) to the internal corner to the right, leading to the beginning of the first wall. From the first gendarme to the beginning of the wall is 250 m. Along the internal corner and then left-up to a narrow shelf at the beginning of the wall. Control point. The wall is monolithic with a limited number of holds. Straight up through the clefts (20 m, 80°) traverse to the right into a recess (good belay point) and left-up to a ledge. The ledge is to the right and up to a two-meter shelf. Along the crack above the shelf to a wide cleft and straight along it to a ledge for belay (90 m, piton belay). Then up along the feather-like steep rocks to a gendarme on the ridge. No water. Snow in the couloir to the right. Control point. Bypassing the gendarmes to the right (piton belay 40 m). Then along the slabs (45–50°, piton belay) to the right and up under the second wall (200 m).

Report

ON ASCENT TO PIK Vil'sa VIA NORTH-WEST EDGE, 5A CAT. DIFF. TEAM OF MGS DSO "ZENIT" LEADER V. Tyninkin Moscow 1972

Brief Characteristics of the Ascent Area

Tsey region is one of the main alpine centers in the Caucasus. It is distinguished by an exceptional variety and beauty of gorges. The height of the peaks in the region is over 4000 m. The highest point of the region, Mt. Uilpata, has a height of 4648 m. The height of Pik Vil'sa is 4100 m. Most routes are combined, significant glaciation of the region (Tsey and Skavish glaciers) determines the presence of complex snow and ice sections on the routes. The weather is comparatively unstable. This to a certain extent complicates ascents.