Pic. 3. Nogar on a mangapra in Eepus. Mapura.

14-700

Pic. 1. General view of the Susamyr massif. From right to left the peaks are:

• 1st Zapadnaya (West)
• 2nd Zapadnaya (West)
• Pik Malysh
• Tsentralnaya (Central)
• Snezhnaya (Snowy)
• Ravnotsvetnaya (Evenly Colored) Taken from the north from the Karak-too glacier.

R2

From the parking lot at the GMS on the right-bank moraine of Golubina glacier, the path along the glacier to the Shesterykh pass takes 2 hours. From the pass, turn right and approach the base of the ridge ascent leading to p. Studentov. The beginning of the route is on the left, along the inner corner with ledges, which after 40 m leads to a convenient talus ledge (section R0–R1) Further:

• Up to the left 20 m along the chimney
• 20 m to the right along the inclined ledge (section R0–R2)
• Exit to the "window" between two teeth (40 m)
• From the left of the edge, along the ledges, approach the inner corner, turning into a chimney
• In front of the inner corner - a 6-meter wall
• Section 4–6: along the inner corner and chimney 50 m - exit to the vertical wall
• Along the vertical wall and along the inclined ledge, bypassing the summit of the first ascent to the right, exit to the horizontal part of the first ascent (section 5–6).

Ascent Passport

to p. Students 4279 m. First ascent, I category of ascent — rock climbing 2. Ascent area — Kyrgyz range, Golubina lake area 3. The summit p. Students and per Shesterikh, route characteristics — ridge 4. Proposed category of difficulty — 4A 5. Route characteristics: height difference — 380 m, length of sections 4th cat. of difficulty — 200 m, 3+ cat. of difficulty — 140 m, the rest 2–3 cat. of difficulty; average steepness — 55° 6. Pitons hammered: rock — 42 (12), protection elements — 15 (0), ice — 0 7. Number of climbing hours — 13 8. Number of overnight stays — none 9. Leader — Alimov V. P., CMS Participants:

• Razamascev M.Yu. 2nd sports category
• Polyncev V.A. 2nd sports category
• Churukanova L.I. 2nd sports category
• Desyatov P.R. 2nd sports category

10. Team coach Belousov E.B. CMS II. Date of departure on the route and return from the route — August 20, 1987

Route 6 Ascent to p. Skrylne from July 3 to 10, 1953 3A cat. sl. Evokokov, 72 4650 m

Author: Dmitry Pavlenko, Bishkek

Peak Simagina, Polevoy Route 5B

The approach from Koronskaya Hut takes one to one and a half hours. From the bergschrund to the rocks, it's half a rope of ordinary ice. The authentic variant bypasses the lower rock leg on the left. The climbing is up to 5th category, but it's destroyed. I climbed straight up the leg. Climbing is 5+ and A1 with some artificial aids. In crampons, the second half of the rope can be climbed. The 60m rope ends just before a gap in the ridge where the authentic route comes out.

1st day of ascent. February 8, 1990. The group started the route at 3:00 AM. Section P0–P2. The upper snow-filled passage is traversed to the right under the ice wall. The sheer ice wall is climbed using Alpfiz with ice screws, with a short traverse to the left under the rocks of p. Sinagina. The belay spot is uncomfortable. Section P2–P6. The ice slope, with an average steepness of 65°, is climbed along the left part of the couloir, pressing against the rocks. Closer to the center of the couloir, snow dust pours down, making it difficult to work. Section R6–R7. The ice cornice is climbed to the left and upwards, leading to a very steep internal angle. The climbing is tense, and the belay spot is very uncomfortable. Section R7–R8. The ice internal angle leads to a ridge, the belay spot is uncomfortable, and it transitions into a rocky internal angle, with rocks covered in ice, making the climbing tense, and the belay spot uncomfortable. Section R8–R10. A series of moderately difficult rock walls with small, smooth holds covered in ice lead to a steep "chimney" with a plug. Section P10–P11. Climbing in the "chimney" with a plug is very difficult and tense. It is necessary to clear the holds from ice and snow. The "chimney" ends with a rock ledge — a good spot for belay. Section P11–P12. A series of moderately difficult rock walls, complicated by ice on the rocks, lead to a steep, broken rock ridge, with dry rocks, and convenient belay spots. Many old pitons are found on the rocks. The rock ridge leads to the summit. The descent from the summit was made via the ascent route. Features of the passage:

It seems you forgot to include the text to be translated. Please provide the text, and I'll be happy to assist you.