Eastern Tian Shan

Description of the ascent route to the summit of Karatau (3800 m) in Dzhungar Alatau, difficulty category 1B, completed in 1963 by a group of climbers.

Ascent to the summit of "Karatau" The altitude above sea level according to the altimeter is 3800 m. The summit is located in the Dzungarian Alatau, in its Main Northern ridge. It is situated in the gorge of the Karasai river, a tributary of Aksu, in the left spur of the Main ridge. To the northeast is a rocky wall 50°–70° with a height of 300–400 m, cut by couloirs, from which a rocky ridge leads to the summit. To the east are rocks with scree, and before the summit, there is a rocky wall 60°–80° with a height of 100–200 m. To the west and south is a large scree representing destroyed rocks. Departure at 6:00 from the base camp at 2650 m on the bank of Aksu. The path is in the gorge of the Kar-Sai river. The exit to the very summit is in the northeastern wall. Through a couloir with scree, the path goes west to the ridge of the spur. At the snowpatch, there is a turn to the south. This bypasses the northeastern wall. Further, the path goes along the snowy scree and exits to a large icy scree representing destroyed rocks. Movement along it is slow and tense. Further, a rocky ridge of about a hundred meters is passed in rope teams. The second group reaches the summit at 13:00. Descent to the south, to the "Enbek" pass. From it, the descent is onto scree in the Kar-Sai gorge onto the glacier. Return to the base camp at 17:00. The weather during the ascent was sunny, but at times a cold wind blew. The ascent was made on September 14, 1963, by 12 people led by NAIMAN (1st sports category) and KONDRATYEV (2nd sports category). The remaining participants had the III sports category and the "Alpinist of the USSR" badge. The presumed degree of difficulty is 1B.

Ascent route description to the "Karaganda" peak (4014 m) in Dzungarian Alatau with a difficulty category of 2A.

Ascent to the summit "Karaganda" The geodetic height is 4014 m. The summit is located in the Dzungarian Alatau, in its Main Northern ridge. It is situated in the main ridge near the Demekpe pass. A glacier descends from the summit to the north. Its upper part is gentle, but the steepness increases significantly towards the bottom. The north-eastern side is a continuous glacier, which is part of an ice cirque. To the south lies a rocky scree. From the west, there are scree slopes and rocks of moderate difficulty before the summit. Departure at 8:30. At the Demekpe pass by 11:00. From here, the path to the summit begins - eastward along the scree. We reach the ridge. A glacier descends from it to the north, and a snowy-ice cornice to the south. We pass the cornice on the left along the glacier, roped and in crampons. We reach rocks of moderate difficulty. The rocks are covered with snow and ice. Movement with alternating belay. The rock section is about 100 m high, with a steepness of 50–70°. At the summit by 13:00. Descent to the north along easy slopes for 100 m. We cross the glacier to the west and join the ascent route. Further descent follows the ascent path. Base camp by 17:30. The weather during the ascent was very poor. Visibility sometimes disappeared completely. Strong cold wind. Fog. The ascent was made on September 16, 1963. The group consisted of: | KONDRATYEV | — leader — Category "P" | |---|---| | GATSUTS | — 3rd category |

Climbing route description for "Enbek" peak (3920 m) in Dzhungarsky Alatau, difficulty category 2A.

Ascent to the summit "Enbek" The altitude above sea level according to the altimeter is 3920 m. The summit is located in the Dzungarian Alatau, in its Main northern ridge. It is situated in the gorge of the Karasai river, a tributary of Aksu, in the left spur of the Main ridge. From the northeast - an ice wall that starts from the glacier and ends on the summit ridge. Steepness is 45–50° and from the east and southeast - destroyed rocks, partially covered with snow. From the south - a rocky ridge. To the west - a large scree, which ends in rocks at the bottom. Departure at 6:00. The path is in the Karasai river gorge. Exit to the "Enbek" pass via scree at 9:00. Further - along the ridge to the south. To the left - an ice wall, to the right - a frozen scree. Movement is exactly along the ridge. Three ascents are overcome. Before the fourth ascent - an ice couloir, which descends to the west to the Koksai river valley. The ascent is icy. Crampons and insurance via an ice axe. The length of the steep part of the ascent is 50–60 m, with three pitons hammered into it. Steepness is 45–50°. Further path is along the ridge of frozen rocks. On the summit at 12:00. Return to the west via scree with exit to the couloir. Descent to the Koksai valley at 15:00 (descent took 2 hours). To the base camp at 18:00. The weather is cold with wind, continuous cloud cover. The ascent was made on September 15, 1963, as part of the group: KONDRATYEV - leader - CMS GATSUTS - III sports category