Crimean Mountains
Route Description: Галицкого
Description of the Galitsky Route 5B, 7a, A0, 270 m on Shaan-Kaya, including details of passage and technical features.
Shaan-Kaya — 11
Author: Alexander Lavrinenko, Odessa
Alexander Lavrinenko
Shaan-Kaya is located in the Alupka area. It is not part of the Southern ridge, but is
jutting out to the sea, in front of the Alupka wall. The wall height difference is about 250 m. In
the central part, the wall overhangs. There are 6 routes laid on the wall (Note: as of December
2001, 8 routes have been completed), all 6B category.
To get under Shaan-Kaya, you need to:
- Reach Alupka "Pitomnik" stop
Description of the 5B category route to the Shaan-Kaya wall in Crimea with a detailed description of the passage and technical details.
Shaan-Kaya — 9
Author: Alexander Lavrinenko, Odesa
Shaan-Kaya is located near Alupka. It is not part of the South Ridge, but is protruded towards the sea, in front of the Alupka wall. The wall's height difference is about 250 m. In the central part, the wall overhangs. There are 6 routes laid on the wall (Note: as of December 2001, 8 routes have been climbed), all are of 6th category of difficulty.
Alexander Lavrinenko
To get to Shaan-Kaya, you need to:
- Get to the Alupka "Pitomnik" stop
- From there, go up the road
- Pass through the vineyards
- Get on a dirt road, which leads practically under the wall Water is available at a spring within 15 minutes walk from the wall.
Route Description: Зуб
Route 5B category on скала Зуб (Zub Rock), description of the path, 10 pitches, terrain features and belaying details.
Route №12 “Zub”
(D. Popov, A. Shelkhakov, 1999) 5B V+ A2 345 m (10 pitches). Average completion time — 5–7 hours. A long and infrequently visited route. Some intermediate pitons are unreliable. Navigate through the boulder field to reach the base of a massive chimney-fissure. Follow the wall to the right, towards the flake “Zub”. The route starts on the large flake “Zub” leaning against the wall. From the top of the flake, the route transitions to the main wall, then to a large ledge. From the left part of the ledge, the route goes up through a series of internal corners. The exit to the yayla is via a piton traverse through an overhang. R0–R1: 35 m. Up the monolithic wall on the left side of “Zub” to the right, towards a tree. Pitons are present. Belay station on a tree. 35 m V+. R1–R2: 20 m. Up the slab, exit to a gentler slope. Belay station on a tree. 20 m V+ A1. R1–R2: 20 m. Up the slab, exit to a gentler slope. Belay station on a tree. 20 m V+ A1. R2–R3: 20 m. Descend into a gap between “Zub” and the main wall. Swing pendulum-style to the wall and reach the belay station. 20 m.
Route Description: Зуб
Ascent to the summit of the mountain, description of the route of the 11th category of complexity, including complex rock and ice sections.
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The "Scolopendra" route (5B) to Chelebi peak (657 m) with a detailed description and technical details.
Chelebi (657 m). Scolopendra
Massif: Chelebi (657 m) Difficulty: 5B Author: Lavrinenko A., Polyakov M. Route description:
- 0–1 Start — behind a large rock standing near the wall, upwards through cracks, in the direction of a large tree, the rightmost one. Near the tree — a belay station, a comfortable ledge. 27 m IV 2–3 Upwards through a system of corners, climbing + ITO, there are holes for skyhooks, 2 bolts, exit onto a destroyed ledge, here is a bolt. From it, upwards to the right, careful climbing, to a tree. On the tree, a belay station.
- 50 m
Route Description: Вербы
Description of mountaineering routes in the Chelebi massif in Crimea, including route characteristics and details of passage.
Chelebi — 8
Author: Alexander Lavrinenko, Odessa
Chelebi, Crimea. Descriptions of alpinist routes
The Chelebi massif is located in the western part of the Main ridge of the Crimean mountains, between the "Baidarskie vorota" pass and the Il'yas-Kaya mountain. Relative height 200 m, absolute height 600 m above sea level.
Despite the relatively low height, 5 routes of 5th and 6th category of difficulty pass through the central part of the wall. The routes are very popular (e.g., Bershov's route, there are several ascents per day).
Descent from the wall is possible both from the left and the right. The left path (if looking towards the sea) is shorter:
- Follow the yayla along the cliff towards the Baidarskie vorota for about 600–700 m.
- Near the descent couloir, there is a group of trees.
- Down the steep scree, then right along the wall.
Route Description: Днепровский
Description of mountaineering routes on the Chelebi massif in Crimea, including detailed characteristics and complexity assessments of the routes.
Chelebi — 7
Author: Aleksandr Lavrinenko, Odessa
Chelebi, Crimea. Descriptions of alpinist routes
The Chelebi massif is located in the western part of the Main Ridge of the Crimean Mountains, between the "Baidarskie vorota" pass and the Il'yas-Kaya mountain. The relative height is 200 m, the absolute height is 600 m above sea level.
Despite the relatively low height, 5 routes of 5th and 6th category of difficulty have been laid through the central part of the wall. The routes are very popular (for example, the Bershov route, there can be several ascents per day).
Descent from the wall is possible both from the left and from the right. The left path (if looking towards the sea) is shorter:
- Follow the yaila along the cliff towards the Baidar Gates for about 600–700 m.
- Near the descent couloir, there is a group of trees.
- Down the steep scree, then right along the wall.
Route Description: Стрелка
Description of mountaineering routes in the Chelebi massif in Crimea, including the complexity and details of passing routes of various categories of difficulty.
Chelebi — 4
Author: Alexander Lavrinenko, Odessa
Chelebi, Crimea. Descriptions of mountaineering routes
The Chelebi massif is located in the western part of the Main Ridge of the Crimean Mountains, between the "Baidarskie Vorota" pass and Ilias-Kaya mountain. Relative height is 200 m, absolute height is 600 m above sea level.
Despite its relatively low height, 5 routes of 5th and 6th category of difficulty pass through the central part of the wall. The routes are very popular (for example, Bershov's route, there are sometimes several ascents per day).
Descent from the wall is possible both from the left and from the right:
- The left path (if you look at the sea) is shorter: you need to go along the yayla along the cliff towards the Baidarskie Vorota for about 600–700 m.
- Near the descent couloir, a group of trees grows.
- Down the steep scree, then to the right along the wall.
Route Description: Белка
The "Belka" route on the Chelebi bastion, difficulty category A2, with a description of the passage and key relief elements.
«Belka»
The route passes in the left part of the Chelebi bastion. The start is to the left of the «Strelka» Suslov's route, approximately twenty meters away. Up a vertical internal corner between two slabs:
- free climbing 5 cat. diff. — 10 m to a ledge (on the first two pitons, loops hang for orientation).
- from the ledge 15–20 m up a thin crack and so on A2 (skyhooks may be needed) to a rusty ledge.
On the rusty ledge, it's possible to make a station (there's an old rusty piton with a loop, approximately 30 m from the ground).
From the ledge upwards, first along the crack, then skyhooks in the direction of the cornice. The cornice is passed in the left part. Behind the cornice, to the right, to a good crack. On the second drilled hole, there's a station. The section is 30 m and A2. There are six drilled pitons:
- The lower one is rusty, left over from Suslov's attempt. Then, along good cracks, straight up in the direction of the white internal corner. местами лазание, местами и.т.о. A1. The section is 40 m. The station is at the base of the white internal corner, there's a drilled piton. Up the corner 20 m and A2 to the junction with «Strelka».
Route Description: Экстрим
The route to the top of Chelebi with a detailed description and photographs for climbers and mountain tourists.
Chelebi —
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