Karakaursyn (4404 m) — Zhanatau (4242 m) — Leningradets (4015 m)

Traverse with ascent via the North wall of Karakaursyn peak, route 4A cat. difficulty (fig. 3, 3a, 3b). The named peaks are located in the Konstitutsia spur of the Trans-Ili Alatau ridge. The spur separates the Dmitriev and Konstitutsia glaciers, located in the upper reaches of the Left Talgar valley. The approach to the route begins from the base camp on the moraine of the Toguзак glacier.

• Cross the moraine.
• Reach the saddle on the dividing ridge between the Konstitutsia and Toguзак glaciers.
• Cross the saddle and descend into the middle part of the Konstitutsia glacier.

Fig. 3a

Fig. 36 There are no sites on this section. After a few meters of ascent from the place where the backpacks are pulled out, it is necessary to use the ladders again. Special attention should be paid to hammering in pitons: the rocks are brittle! Further, along steep slabs to the exfoliated rock in front of a large snowy shelf. To reach the shelf, move to the right into a steep ice gully. Climb 2 meters up along it and exit onto the shelf. Moving along the shelf to the left, continue moving up along sheer complex rocks, and then, traversing to the right, approach a steep (70°) narrow ice gully. Cross the gully at the point where a large rock protrudes in the middle, and move to the right narrow rocky islet separating the gully from the snowy slope. From this islet, ascend up the steep (60°) icy slope. For about six meters, the ascent involves chopping steps. The belay is piton. Move left from the piton - upwards in the direction of the beginning of the snow ridge's ascent. On the ridge, the belay is through an ice axe. To the left of the ridge, on the rocks, there is a good bivouac site. From the initial bivouac to here, it takes 12-13 hours of walking.

Here, an overnight stay is possible: there is water available in mid-summer. The ascent to the ridge begins after circumventing the rocks along the edge of the snow on the right side, in the lower part of the gendarme — via broken rocks. Proceed in the direction of the saddle between the gendarme and the second part of the ridge ascent. After reaching the saddle, move slightly to the left. Belay is via pitons; piton placement is necessary for belaying and for artificial anchors. Further along the ridge:

• monolithic rock sections are circumvented on the left
• via loose rocks — ascent to the summit of Жанатау. Descent from the summit towards the summit of Ленинградец is initially via rocks, then via a steep snowy section leading to a snow platform in front of the monolithic rock Зуб, rising before the second pass. Descend to the foot

Peak Konstitutsii Kazakhstana (4709 m)

Traverse from northwest to southeast, route 4A cat. difficulty (Fig. 1). The summit named Konstitutsii Kazakhstana is located in the main ridge of Zailiysky Alatau, in the immediate vicinity of the northward spur that separates the Dmitrieva and Konstitutsii glaciers and is also named Konstitutsii. The traverse route begins from the initial bivouac on the right-bank moraine of the Konstitutsii glacier. From the bivouac, cross the glacier (cautiously: crevasses!) towards the northwest ridge of Peak Konstitutsii. When ascending the ridge, follow the western edge as the slope is quite steep and avalanche-prone (45°). There are areas with flow ice. In the middle part of the edge, bypass a large bergschrund with step-cutting and thorough belaying. The steepness here is 60–65°. Further, the edge rises steeply. At the end of the season, it becomes entirely icy. Overcoming the edge requires 7–8 ice screws for belaying. The exit to the ridge is uncomplicated. On the first gendarme, there's a control cairn. The total length of the ridge is about three kilometers, with steepness in some areas reaching 50–60°. To the south, there are overhanging cornices. The ridge has many small drops and two dips. Descend into the first dip, after passing the second gendarme on the left side, via the slabs. The ascent from the dip is difficult and requires thorough belaying. Initially, it goes along a snowy slope with a steepness of up to 55°, then the slope becomes icy, with a steepness of up to 60°. The ascent length is 100–120 m. Further, the ridge becomes somewhat gentler, very narrow, with steep slopes on both sides. This section of the ridge should be traversed very cautiously, walking along the ridge crest for 150–170 m. Some sections are traversed in a "penguin-like" manner.

Fig. 1