Account of a team’s passage on a category 6 route on the northwestern wall of Peak 4507 in the Kara-Shyv valley, Turkestan Range, in 1988.
Passport Technical class. Turkestan Range, Kara-Su gorge, Karavshin river valley. Peak 4507 m. First ascent via the left part of the northwest wall. 6B cat. diff. (approximate). Height difference 1300 m, length 2010 m. Length of sections with 5–6 cat. diff. is 1115 m, including 535 m of 6 cat. diff. Average steepness of the main part of the route: I wall — 75° II wall — 80°
First ascent of Peak 4520 via the right part of the northwest wall, cat. 6B, 1485 m, 38 hours of walking time.
Passport Technical category. Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Ridge, Karavshin valley. Peak "4520", via the right part of the NW wall. Category 6B proposed, first ascent. Height difference 1100 m, length 1485 m. Length of sections with 5-6 category difficulty is 1275 m, including 645 m of 6B category. The average slope of the route is 70° (3420-4520). The average slope of the wall part of the route is 76° (3420-4340). Pitons used: | Rock | Bolt | Nuts | Ice |
Description of the passage of a category 5 route along the North-Eastern wall of Peak 4520m in the Northern spurs of the Turkestan Range, completed by a group of Dnipropetrovsk climbers in 1988.
Passport Technical category. Northern spurs of the Turkestan Range, Kara-Su gorge. Peak 4520 m via the Southeast wall. Proposed 5B category of difficulty, first ascent. Height difference 550 m, length. Length of sections: 6th category of difficulty — 110 m 5B category of difficulty — 260 m Average steepness of the route — 58°.
Report on the traverse of three peaks in the Turkestan Range, carried out by the Uzbekistan MS team as part of the CIS Alpine Championship in 1992.
Ascent Passport Traverse class. Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Ridge, Karavshin river basin. Peak 4507 m, 1000th Anniversary of Baptism of Rus via SE wall, 6A cat. diff. (3rd ascent); peak 4300 m via NE edge, 5A cat. diff. (approximately, first ascent); peak 4810 m via N wall, 6A cat. diff. (approximately, first ascent). Proposed category complexity: 6B cat. diff. Route characteristics: length 4016 m, ascent — 2608 m, descent — 1498 m. average traverse length — 4116 m. length of sections with V cat. diff. — 565 m, VI cat. diff. — 813 m. Pitons driven: