1. Climbing class — rock climbing
2. Climbing area — Sakashilsky
3. Peak — Peak XIV Congress of VLKSM, height 3465 m, climbing route — South wall from the Sakashil glacier cirque.
4. Estimated category difficulty — 3B.
5. Route characteristics — rock climbing. Height difference — 350 m. Average steepness — 60°.
6. Number of pitons — rock pitons 12 pcs. Number of travel hours — from Tyrnyauz town to the bivouac – 5 hours, from the bivouac to the summit and descent – 6 hours.
7. Number of nights — one night at a bivouac near the Sakashil glacier lake.
8. Leader — Nikolai Vasilyevich Zimin — 1st sports category Participants:

• I.I. Khachuev — 1st sports category

4. Climbing description

for an unnamed peak, named “Peak named after the XIV Congress of Komsomol” (3465 m) via the Southwest Ridge, cat. 2B. “Peak named after the XIV Congress of Komsomol” is located in a spur dividing the upper reaches of the Sakashil-Su and Khunaly-Chat gorges (the upper left tributary of Sakashil). The first ascent was made on March 31, 1962, during the alpinada of Komsomol members from Tyrnyauz in honor of the XIV Congress of Komsomol, by a group of 4 people led by Master of Sports Chikhradze G. A. Day 1 — approach. To the bivouac — the same as the approach for ascents to “Peak of Tyrnyauz Komsomol members” and “Peak named after the XXI Congress of CPSU.” Day 2 — from the bivouac, the path initially goes the same way as to “Peak of Tyrnyauz Komsomol members” — along the right (orographic) bank of the river, but then instead of ascending the slopes to the left, you need to enter the upper floodplain, turn right, cross the river, which usually branches into several small streams here, and ascend to the old terminal moraine of the Sakashil glacier. The ascent is via coarse scree.

211. Peak XIV Congress of Komsomol via the North-Eastern Ridge (M. Pavlenko's route, category III difficulty) The path from the town of Tyrnyauz (a group of 4 people) to the initial bivouac in the upper reaches of the Sakashil River is described in routes 209 and 210. From the bivouac, follow the left bank of the Sakashil River into the upper floodplain, where the river branches into several streams. Cross the river and ascend via large scree to an old terminal moraine of the Sakashil Glacier. Follow the moraine to reach the upper terrace. Then, either follow the stream or ascend slightly higher via grassy slopes on the right bank, and then via scree, approach the base of the Southeast Wall of Peak XIV Congress of Komsomol. Turn right here and ascend up-right via a broad grassy couloir to a distinct notch on the North-Eastern ridge of the peak. 1.5–2 hours from the initial bivouac. From the notch, turn left and ascend 80 m straight up via moderately difficult steep slabs with small ledges and holds (piton belay, "live" rocks!). In the upper part, bypass steep smooth slabs on the left via a steep but straightforward couloir ("live" rocks!). From the couloir, bypass a нависающий угол on the left via ledges and ascend via a moderately difficult, indistinct internal corner to a ledge above an overhanging rock. Then, ascend via ledges on the left side of the wall to reach the ridge. Follow a straightforward, gently sloping ridge to R1, which is bypassed on the right via ledges (piton belay!). Then, ascend via moderately difficult rock to a point below R2, which is also bypassed on the left. Beyond the gendarme, ascend right onto the summit ridge. Follow a steep, sharp, but straightforward rocky ridge to ascend Peak XIV Congress of Komsomol. 5–6 hours from the notch.

1. Summit, its height — peak XIV съезда ВЛКСМ, 3465 m
2. Ascent route — south-eastern edge from the cirque of Sakashil glacier.
3. Proposed complexity category — 3B
4. Route characteristic: rocky, height difference — 350 m, average steepness 55°.
5. Pitons driven: rock — II pcs.
6. Number of travel hours: a) Tyrnyauz — bivouac — 6 h; b) bivouac — summit — 6 h
7. Number of overnight stays — one overnight stay at a bivouac at the Small Lake on the terminal moraine of Sakashil glacier.
8. Leader: EFREMOV Vladimir Vasilievich, 1st sports category Participants:

• Galyamov Shagimul Magadovich — 1st sports category

SPARTAK KABARDINO-BALKAR COUNCIL DOSAAF

Report on the First Ascent via the Western Counterfort of Peak XIV Congress of Komsomol

(approximately 4A category of difficulty)

Central Caucasus

Team coach — Candidate Master of Sports of the USSR Yu.A. Ivanov Team captain — 1st sports category V.N. Li

Nalchik

September 2–4, 1978

Description of the First Ascent via the Western Counterfort of Peak XIV Congress of Komsomol (Route 4A category of difficulty, September 3–4, 1978)

Ascent Passport

I. Climbing class — rock. 2. Central Caucasus. Baksan valley, Sakashil gorge. 3. Peak XIII Congress of Komsomol, 3465 m, via Western counterfort. 4. Difficulty category — 4A, cat. diff. 5. Route characteristics: height difference — 450 m; length of sections with 5 — 6 diff. cat. — 100 m; average steepness 45°–50°. 6. Rock pitons hammered — 23 pcs. 7. Eleven walking hours.