Gora Angar-Burun

Peak1,453 m
SummitMateSSummitMate
November 15, 2024
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The "Dвойка" (Double) 2A route in Crimea, Angarskaya wall: a technical description and features of passing the initial difficulty level route.

Crimea, Angarskaya Wall. "Dvoika" Route 2A

The start of the route is marked with the number "2" at the base of the wall in blue paint. The route consists of four short ropes, passes through the left part of the wall, and ends with a large chimney. An old climbing route 2A, fully equipped with fixed protection. It can be considered as a multipitch. Descent rings are present at the stations. Angarskaya Wall. "Dvoika" Route 2A F6a Angarskaya Wall. "Dvoika" Route 2A F6a (blue line on the photo, the first on the left)

Technical description of the route:

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A description of the "Through the Room" 3A route on the Angarskaya Wall in Crimea with technical details and recommendations for climbers.

Crimea, Angarskaya wall. "Cherez komnatu" Route 3A

Angarskaya wall. "Cherez komnatu" Route 3A (F6b–6c).

The route passes through the inner corner to the right of "Dвойка" (Two) and gradually transitions under the overhanging cornice. This section of the wall is the first to be shaded after noon. It is worth noting the logical placement of bolts:

  • on difficult sections, bolts are more frequent
  • on easier sections, they are less frequent Angarskaya wall. "Cherez komnatu" Route 3A (line on the photo - second from the left)

Technical description of the route:

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The "Unitalz" 3A route on the Angarskaya Wall in Crimea, a detailed technical description with characteristics of the sections and recommendations for passage.

Crimea, Angarskaya wall. "Unitaz" route 3A

Angarskaya wall. "Unitaz" route 3A (total 4 pitches).

The route has many drilled belay anchors at all key sections. It can be recommended as a first 3A route for less confident climbers. Standard equipment. Routes of Angarskaya wall. "Unitaz" route 3A (green line)

Technical description of the route:

R0–R1: 40 m, IV. The start of the route is located 20 m to the right of "Acrophobia". The first belay anchor is visible from the ground.

  • Up through a small overhang - a difficult section.
  • Easier afterwards. Belay station on anchors. R1–R2: 30 m, III.
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Description of the "Troika" 3A route on the Angarskaya Wall in Crimea with technical details and equipment recommendations.

Crimea, Angarskaya Wall. Route "Troyka" 3A

Angarskaya Wall. Classic via chimney 3A (V. Goncharov — V. Gumenyuk (Yalta)).

Equipment:

  • Large-sized chocks
  • Large friends/camalots
  • Large-sized hexes
  • 10 quickdraws Time to complete the route for an average team: 3 hours. On the far right in the photo: Route "Classic via chimney" 3A
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Description of the "Serp" mountain route, category 4B complexity, on the Angarskaya wall in Crimea, including technical details and recommendations for passage.

Crimea, Angarskaya Wall. "Serp" Route 4B

Angarskaya Wall. "Serp" Route 4B Start: V. Zasypkin — Kh. Kornys (Simferopol). Finish: Yu. Chernyaev, A. Veselov, Yu. Tronov (Simferopol). The route starts from the memorial plaque in memory of A. Veselov. Routes and multipitches of Angarskaya Wall Angarskaya Wall. "Serp" Route 4B (orange line)

Technical description of the route:

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The "Kosya" route 4B on the Angarskaya wall in Crimea, a technical description of the passage and the necessary equipment.

Crimea, Angarskaya wall. "Kosyaya" route 4B

Angarskaya wall. "Kosyaya" route 4B (Li­sha­ev Yu. (Fan­tik))

Required equipment:

  • a set of quickdraws
  • a set of nuts
  • a set of cams
  • hammers and pitons are desirable Large cams, hexes, as well as small nuts work well! Angarskaya wall. "Kosyaya" route 4B
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Description of the "Appenditsit" 4B route on the Angarskaya Wall in Crimea, a challenging and tense line with poor insurance and the presence of loose rocks.

Crimea, Angarskaya wall. "Appenditsit" Route 4B

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Angarskaya wall. "Appenditsit" Route 4B (Samulev E. - start, Lishaev Yu. - finish).

A complex and tense line without drilled holes and auxiliary points on the crux. In some places, there are many loose rocks, and in some places, it's hard to organize belays. It can be rightfully considered the most challenging route on the entire wall. Equipment:

  • hammers and pitons
  • a set of quickdraws
  • medium and large nuts
  • medium and large cams.
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