Route Description

to the summit of "Bezыmannaya" via the southern ridge from the southwest or Gumači pass, category 2A The summit "Bezыmannaya" is located in the upper Adyl-Su valley between the summits Gumači and Chetchat. The ridges of Bezыmannaya consist of simple destroyed rocks alternating with scree and individual snow-ice sections. The described route (traverse) from southwest to northwest was completed on August 6, 1974, by a training and sports group of the All-Union School of Instructors of Mountaineering under the All-Union Central Council of Trade Unions in the following composition:

• I. Naydovich B.V. — leader.
• 2. Starikov G.A.
• 3. Sinelshchikov G.A. The route is evaluated by the group as category 2A. From the "Elbrus" base camp, the path lies along the road to the "Jantugan" base camp, then along the trail on the left bank of the Adyl-Su River to a stone bridge, across which you should cross to its right bank. Further along the trail — to the "Green Hotel" clearing. From the "Elbrus" base camp — 3.5 hours. From the "Green Hotel", go up along the ridge of the right-bank moraine of the Jan-Kuat glacier to the sites at its end ( bivouac "Sneznyy" or "Snowy"). There are two options for reaching the southern ridge of Bezыmannaya.

Starikov Gennadiy, Moscow (author's photo) Trapezia 2A. Ascent passport.

1. Region — Caucasus, Adylsu gorge. (tab. – 2008, p. 42, item 171) Peak name — Trapezia (3697), S slope and W ridge.
2. 2A cat. of difficulty (first ascent)
3. Route type — rock.
4. Route elevation gain from the glacier — 600 m Route length — 1200 m
5. view from the Adylsu gorge
6. view from the glacier

Ascent Log

1. Class — rock.
2. Elbrus region, Central Caucasus.
3. Peak Trapezia (3740 m), via NW edge from the North Djan-kuat glacier.
4. Difficulty category — 2A, first ascent.
5. Route character: snow-ice, height difference from the glacier 300 m, steepness of the upper part 45°, length 180 m.
6. Belay: when approaching the upper bergschrund — via ice axe, on the slope via ice screws, 17 pieces driven in total.
7. Number of travel hours from the bivouac at "Green Hotel" 6–7 hours, descent from the summit — 2.5–3 hours.
8. Group is training:

Gennady Starikov, Moscow (Author's photo) Trapecija 2A, Ascent Passport

1. Region — Caucasus, valley — Adylsu. (table — 2008, p. 42, item 171a) Peak name — Trapecija (3697), NW edge.
2. 2A category of difficulty (first ascent)
3. Nature of the route — snow-ice.
4. Height difference from the glacier — 300 m Length of ice sections of 3rd category of difficulty — 180 m Average steepness of the main part of the route — 45°.