46. Be­лая Ne­zna­kom­ka via East­ern ridge (the route is com­bined, V. Saba­niz­dze, cat­egory III, fig. 5, 8). From the pla­teau (point 37) along a steep ice-and-snow slope, with out­crops of bro­ken rocks of me­dium dif­fi­culty, 150–200 m as­cent (pitons) to the Lower Shoul­der of the East­ern ridge. On the right there are ice falls. Fur­ther 200–250 m along the sim­ple ice-and-snow East­ern ridge (cor­nices) to the Snow Sen­tinel. From it a short des­cent to a sad­dle. Fur­ther along a gen­tle, then along a steep 50–60-me­ter ice-and-snow II as­cent and along frozen 20–40-me­ter rocks of me­dium dif­fi­culty (cor­nices, pitons) to the East­ern sen­tinel. From the sen­tinel along the snow East­ern ridge (cor­nices) to the sad­dle and along a steep 50–60-me­ter ice-and-snow (pitons) III as­cent, then along sim­ple

40. Belaya Neznakomka via the Southern ridge of the Uzlovoĭ gendarme of the Main Caucasian Ridge (MCR) (a combined route, Yu. Pulenets, 3B category of difficulty, fig. 5, 8). From the plateau, to the right of the MCR col between Belaya Neznakomka and Zeskho (point 37), having passed the bergschrund, ascend 40 m via a narrow ice-snow gully (rocks, belay) onto the Southern ridge of the Uzlovoĭ gendarme of the MCR (a cairn on the left on the shoulder). Here, turn right and ascend 60–80 m along slab-like steep simple broken rocks, 15–20 m along steep rocks of medium difficulty on the wall side (“live” rocks, pitons), 80 m along simple broken rocks of the Southern ridge. Then, along steep rocks of medium difficulty (piton belay):

• a 20-meter corner (piton belay)
• a 40-meter wide destroyed rocky ridge Ascend to the Uzlovoĭ gendarme of the MCR (a cairn). From the plateau, 4–5 hours.

Fig. 8.

ASCENT DOCUMENT

19

1. Climbing category — rock climbing
2. Climbing area, ridge — Main Caucasian Ridge from Kitlod pass to Gezevtsеg pass.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route — traverse of Belaya Neznakomka (4200) — Chyornaya Neznakomka (4100) with ascent to the South Gendarme of Belaya Neznakomka via the southeast wall.
4. Estimated category of difficulty — 4B.
5. Route characteristics: a) height difference 600–700 m; b) average steepness — 60°
6. Pitons hammered: — for belay, for intermediate rock anchors: 35 — ice screws: 6

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41. Be­laia Ne­zna­kom­ka via the South­west Ridge of the Main Ridge’s (MR) Junction Pillar (combined route, Sh. Dadesh­keliani, 4A cat. dif., fig. 5, 8). From the “Zes­ho” al­plager down along the road. Past the second bridge, turn right into the first right lateral gorge. Having passed the farm, along the trail, and then along the grassy talus, reach the moraine areas at the upper (left) part of the terminal left-bank moraine of the Neznakomka Glacier. Initial bivouac. 2–2.5 hours from the “Zesho” alplager. From the Moraine areas (departure at 3–4 am), ascend 150–200 m traversing right along the snow-firn slope of the Black Neznakomka’s Main couloir. Then traverse up and right along the ice-snow slope left of the central “ram’s foreheads” of the gorge and the ice falls of the glacier lying above them until you reach the left side of

Fig. 8.

Ascent Log

(Third Ascent)

1. Ascent class — rock climbing.
2. Ascent area, ridge — Caucasus, Main Caucasian Range from Ktlod Pass to Gezhevtsek Pass.
3. Ascent route — Tsurungal via the southeast wall (4222 m) – Central Nезнакомка (4100 m) – Bolshaya Nезнакомка (4200 m).
4. Difficulty category — 5B.
5. Route characteristics: elevation gain — 1980 m, length of 5th-6th difficulty sections — 720 m, average steepness (excluding the ridge part) — 65–70°.

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