Спасателей Архыза

Peak3,231 m
SummitMateSSummitMate
November 15, 2024
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Report on the first ascent of the traverse of the peaks Kel, 3200, and Kelbashi via the eastern wall and ridge, made by a group of climbers on August 8, 2010, with a complexity category of 3B.

Report on the First Ascent of the Traverse v. 3150 (Kel) — v. 3200 — v. 3243 (Kelbashi) via the E Wall and E Ridge

Approximate difficulty: 3B category. Completed by the "Ushba" Climbing Club team on August 8, 2010, under the leadership of Dmitry Anatolyevich Lyublinsky. Address: Russia, Saratov, Khimicheskaya St., 7, apt. 154, phone: (8452) 911 633, +7 927 109 21 10

Climbing Report

  1. Type of ascent: Combined
  2. Region: Caucasus: Sofiya Valley
  3. Peak, route: v. 3150 (Kel) — v. 3200 — v. 3243 (Kelbashi) via the E Wall and E Ridge
  4. Anticipated difficulty: 3B, category: first ascent
  5. Route characteristics: Elevation gain — approximately 270 m, route length — approximately 1615 m,
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Description of the ascent route to the summit via the pass and a col at an altitude of 3150 meters.

product under the start of the route v. 3150 (kel)

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Ascent to Elbrus peak via the classic route with a glacier, 65 km long and 2700 m elevation gain.

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The description of the first ascent of the unnamed peak "Pik 3231" (Eastern) via the South-Eastern ridge from the "Stolichny" pass in the Arkhyz region of the Western Caucasus in 1980.

REPORT

On the first ascent to the summit "Peak 3231" (Eastern), made by a group of climbers from the Stavropol region on May 4, 1980, in the Arkhyz mountain range (Western Caucasus), Stavropol region, west of the "Marukh" pass, Sofiysky ridge. The Arkhyz mountain area is located on the northern slopes of the Main Caucasian Range between the Kardyvach area (Krasnodar region) to the west and the "Marukh" pass to the east. The area is entirely within the Stavropol region and is situated at approximately 43° north latitude. North of the Main Caucasian Range lies the Sofiysky ridge, where this unnamed peak with an elevation of 3231 meters above sea level is located. The base camp was set up at an altitude of 1320 meters above sea level, 1.5 km from the "Glacier Farm" on a clearing. From the base camp:

  • up along the Sofia River
  • to the tributary from the Ak-Ayry glacier
  • along which to the right up to the "Barańi lbov"
  • then to the right into a wide couloir leading to the firn fields
  • up the firn fields to the "Stolichny" pass (3 hours from the camp) The "Peak 3231" summit is a section of the Sofiysky ridge crest (its northeastern part) with two peaks of equal height, located close to each other (200-250 meters along the ridge). Further northwest, the ridge continues with the Mingi-Kyol-Bashi peak. And to the southeast - with the following peaks:
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Report on the first ascent of the route category 2A to the summit "Peak 3231" (Main) via "Peak 3231" (Eastern) in the Arkhyz mountain region.

ASCENT DOCUMENT

  1. ASCENT CLASS: Rock
  2. ASCENT REGION: Arkhyz, Stavropol Krai, KTMGV – 2.1.
  3. PEAK: "Pik 3231" (Main), its height is 3231 m above sea level, ascent via the South-Eastern ridge through the peak "Pik 3231" (Eastern) from the "Stolichny" pass
  4. ANTICIPATED DIFFICULTY: approximately 2A category of difficulty
  5. CHARACTER OF THE ROUTE:
  • Height difference between the base camp and the peak — 1911 m
  • Between the "Stolichny" pass and the peak (Main) — 181 m
  • Total route length from the pass to the peak — 845 m
  • Average steepness — 40°–35°
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Climbing passport for "Peak 3231" (East) via the South-Eastern Ridge, category 1B, Arkhyz region, Sofiyskiy ridge.

Ascent Passport

I. ASCENT CLASS: Rock Climbing 2. ASCENT AREA: Arkhyz, Stavropol Krai, Sofiysky Ridge, KTMGV — 2.I. 3. PEAK: "Peak 3231" (Eastern) with a height of 3231 m above sea level, ascent from the "Stolichny" pass via the southeast ridge. 4. EXPECTED DIFFICULTY: Approximately 1B category of difficulty. 5. ROUTE CHARACTERISTICS: Height difference between the base camp and the peak — 1911 meters; between the "Stolichny" pass and the peak — 181 meters; total route length from the "Stolichny" pass to the peak — 700 meters; average steepness — 35°; Length of section 1 category of difficulty — 580 meters, 2 category of difficulty — 90 meters, 3 category of difficulty — 30 m. 4, 5, 6 category of difficulty — none. 5. PITS DRIVEN: For belaying — rock pits 2 pcs; For artificial support points — none. 6. NUMBER OF CLIMBING HOURS: from the base camp to the peak — 4 h 45 min; from the "Stolichny" pass to the peak — 1 h 45 min; descent from the peak to the base camp — 3.5 h. 8. NUMBER OF NIGHTS SPENT: no nights were spent on the route, possible place for overnight stay — under the "Stolichny" pass (snow) 7. GROUP INFORMATION: Leader — Fursov Yuri Sergeevich — 1st sports category. Participants: Klochkov N.V., Kobtsev A.M., Belokurov I.L., Grishchenko O.G., Dybancova L.V. — all 2nd sports category. Team coach: Rogovsky Viktor Petrovich — 1st sports category, instructor-methodologist of II category of difficulty 2357.

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Description of the traverse of the peaks 60 let KChAO, Peshchera, Septemvri and Kelbesh in the Western Caucasus, difficulty category 3A, climbed in January 1982.

CharacteristicValue
CLIMB CLASStraverse
CLIMB AREAWestern Caucasus, Arkhyz, northern spur of the Sofiyskiy ridge between the valleys of the Psyysh and Sofiya rivers
PEAK ROUTE60 let KChAO, Peshtera, Septemvri (proposed by the first ascenders), Kelbashi
ASSUMED DIFFICULTY CATEGORY3A (winter)
ROUTE DESCRIPTION– Rock and snow, mostly ridge, absolute altitude difference 643 m
NUMBER OF PITOONS12
NUMBER OF TRAVERSE HOURS12 hours (from the start of the route to the summit of Kelbashi)
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