Маркса
Route Description: С стене
SSummitMateClimbing Mount Everest via the Southeast Ridge, a description of the challenging route and key aspects of preparation and technique.
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Route Description: центру С стены
SSummitMateClimbing Mount Everest via the South Col: a description of the challenging route, key stages, and essential skills required for a successful ascent by climbers.
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Route to Edelweiss peak via SW edge, 3B difficulty category, a detailed description of the ascent and key moments.
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Route Description: СЗ ребру
SSummitMateReport on the first ascent of Peak K. Marx (6726 m) via the northwest edge in the Western Pamir, made by the northern team of Dnipropetrovsk climbers in August 1971.
To the Classification Committee
of the USSR Alpine Federation
Moscow
REPORT
ON THE FIRST ASCENT OF MARX PEAK (6726)
VIA THE NORTH-WEST RIDGE ON THE SOUTH-WESTERN
PAMIR, MADE BY THE COMBINED TEAM OF ALPINISTS FROM THE DNEPROPETROVSK REGIONAL COMMITTEE FOR PHYSICAL CULTURE AND SPORTS.
August 1–16, 1971
Route Description: правой части С стены
SSummitMateFirst ascent of Peak Marx via the South-West Wall (Pamir), category 5B, by a team of climbers in 1976.
II. Passport
- High-altitude class, combined route.
- South-Western Pamir.
- Peak Marx via the right part of the S wall.
- 5B cat. dif., First ascent.
- Height difference 1726 m. Average steepness of the wall section — 65°. Length of sections with 5 cat. dif. — 840 m. 6 cat. dif. — 140 m.
- Pitons driven: | Rock | Nuts | Bolt | Ice | | :------- | :------- | :--------- | :------ |
Route Description: ЮЗ гребню
SSummitMateAscent to the summit of Marka, route description, technical information, and photographs.
Marka
Route Description: ЮЗ гребню
SSummitMate### Overview of the Western Pamir Region and Routes of the Russian Spartak Expedition The Western Pamir region offers a range of challenging mountaineering opportunities. This summary focuses on the routes taken by the Russian Spartak expedition, highlighting their ascents of peaks **Marx** and **Engels**, known for their technical difficulties.
Brief Description of the Area
The Soviet Pamir is divided into three parts:
- eastern,
- central,
- western. The central part of the Pamir is a highly elevated desert plateau, with destroyed mountains of 5000–5500 m height. The plateau is surrounded by chains of high mountains with sharply dissected relief. The Western part of the Pamir differs sharply from the Central Pamir. Comparatively low northern slopes of the ridge with calmly flowing rivers suddenly abut against the sheer walls of the main ridge. This part of the Pamir remains a poorly studied area. The goal of the Russian Spartak expedition was:
- more detailed study of this area,
- educational and sports high-altitude ascents,
Route Description: 3 гребню
SSummitMateAscent to the summit of Hukarad (6340 m) via the northwestern counterfort, grade 3Е.
6340
Difficulty category 3Е