Orography and Glaciation

Peak Maksim Gor'kiy (6,050 m) is undoubtedly one of the most technically challenging peaks in the vast mountain range of Tien Shan. This beautiful peak rises above the middle part of the Stalin Ridge, with Peak Chapayeva (6,371 m) to the east beyond a saddle, and Peak N. Krupskaya (5,900 m) — still unclimbed — to the west, beyond a sharp drop in the ridge. Peak Maksim Gor'kiy has the shape of a giant trapezoid, sharply elevated above the ridge line. The summit ridge stretches from west to east for almost 2 km, with the highest point located in the eastern part, rising 150–170 m above the ridge. Three lateral spurs descend towards the South Inylchek Glacier: — southeast; — south; — southwest. Moreover, in their lower parts, these spurs branch out into a series of rocky ridges heavily glaciated, thus forming numerous rocky walls. The southeast and south spurs merge at around 5,900 m and then connect to the summit dome via a short ridge. All ridges are sharp and typically crowned with large cornices overhanging to the east. The southwest ridge extends to approximately 5,500–5,600 m, where it transitions into a steep edge. To the east, the peak drops with a 1.5 km wall into the multi-kilometer cirque of the Chapayev Glacier. Between the southeast and south ridges lies a cirque with the Karatash Glacier.

Results of the ascent made at the 1970 USSR speleology championship

1. Ascent class: Technical-alpinist
2. Ascent region: Tien Shan (Inner Tien Shan)
3. Ascent route: Ascent to the peak of Pik Gorkogo from the Beryoza glacier via the right buttress
4. Ascent characteristics: Height difference 2000 m, average angle of ascent 55°, length of complex sections 1200 m
5. Number of belays: Rock 92, ice 208, piton 8
6. Total time taken: Ascent 64 hours, descent 18 hours
7. Number and characteristics of bivouacs: 16 tents, mostly on ice, set up in 3-4 hours
8. Team name: Central Sports Council of the Spartak Sports Society
9. Names and sports ranks of participants:

Ascent Passport

1. Tian-Shan, Tengri-Tag ridge, 7.9.1
2. Gorkogo (NE), 6010 m, center of NW wall
3. Proposed 6B category of complexity, first ascent
4. Route type: combined
5. Route height difference: 1510 m Route length: 2030 m Length of sections: V category of complexity — 830 m, VI category of complexity — 400 m Average steepness: main part of the route (4500 m–5900 m) — 60° total route (4500 m–6010 m) — 58°

Climbing Passport

1. Tian-Shan, Tengri-Tag ridge, 7.9.1
2. Gorky (NE), 6010 m, via the left part of NW wall
3. Proposed 6A category of difficulty, first ascent
4. Route type: combined
5. Route elevation gain: 1510 m Route length: 2050 m Section lengths:

• V category of difficulty – 385 m
• VI category of difficulty – 335 m