Спортивная
Route Description: СЗ склону
SSummitMateAscent to the peak Sportivnaya via Sportivny Glacier, category 2 difficulty, from Talgar alp camp with route description and recommendations.
Ascent to Sportivnaya peak from the northwest via Sportivny glacier, route 2nd cat. dif. From Talgar alpine camp:
- East along the trail
- Past the training rocks of the Eastern ridge
- Turn right
- Initially along the grassy slope
- Then along the large moraine stones of Sportivny glacier The moraine has elevation changes. Overnight stay on the moraine. From the overnight site, reach the snowy slope of the ridge branching off from Sportivnaya peak
Route Description: СЗ склону
SSummitMateDescription of the ascent route to the summit with technical details and illustrations.
Fig. 46
Route Description: СЗ кф.
SSummitMateDescription of the first ascent via the NW ridge of Sporitivnaya peak made by the TADGAR alpine camp instructors in 1977, with a detailed analysis of the route and recommendations for climbers.
REPORT on the first ascent via the North-North-West ridge Group of instructors from TALGAR alpine camp
| Ponkratov | E. I. | 1st category, leader |
| Zotov | A. V. | 2nd category, participant |
| Shabrukov | V. I. | 1st category — « — » |
| Gerost | V. P. | 2nd category — « — » |
| Zhukov | N. A. | 2nd category — « — » |
| Alma-Ata, 1977 |
Route Description: СЗ кф.
SSummitMateClimbing passport for the summit Sportivnaya (4000 m) in the Trans-Ili Alatau range of Tian Shan via a 3B category difficulty route.
Ascent Passport
I. Ascent Class — Rock (Combined) 2. Ascent Region — Tian-Shan, Trans-Ili Alatau ridge 3. Peak, its height, and ascent route — p. Sportivnaya, 4000 m, North-North-West edge 4. Proposed difficulty category — 3B 5. Route characteristics — height difference — 600 m, average steepness ≥ 50°?; length of sections: I difficulty cat. — 150 m, II difficulty cat. — 405 m, III difficulty cat. — 655 m, IV difficulty cat. — 180 m, V difficulty cat. — none, VI difficulty cat. — none 6. Pitons hammered: for belay, for creating intermediate belay anchors
Route Description: 3 гребню
SSummitMateFirst ascent of the western ridge of the peak Sportivnaya (Tian Shan) by a group of instructors from the Talgar alpine camp with a 4A complexity category.
Minutes of the Uzelskaya Classification Commission Meeting
July 29, 1978 Talgar Alpine Camp The Uzelskaya Classification Commission, appointed by the authorized Sports Committee of the USSR for the Tian-Shan region, Comrade R.P. Stroganov (order No. 6 dated July 28, 1978), consisting of:
- V.N. Zapeka — senior instructor, Master of Sports — Chairman of the Commission
- A.V. Kelberg — senior instructor, Master of Sports — member of the commission
- E.L. Vardanov — senior instructor, Candidate for Master of Sports — member
- V.A. Ganyalin — senior instructor, Candidate for Master of Sports — member
- V.I. Shabrukov — instructor, 1st sports category — member
Route Description: 3 гребню
SSummitMateAscent record of Sпортивная peak (4000 m) via Western Ridge, grade 3B, Tian Shan mountain system, Trans-Ili Alatau range.
Ascent Passport
1: Class of ascent — combined 2: Region of ascent — Tian-Shan, Trans-Ili Alatau ridge 3. Peak Sportivnaya, height 4000 m, western ridge 4. Presumed category of difficulty — 3B 5. Characteristics of the route:
- height difference — 700 m.
- length of sections with 5th cat. diff. — 20 m.
- average steepness — 40°
- Pitons driven: