Бурджула

Peak4,364 m
SummitMateSSummitMate
November 15, 2024
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**Ascent to the summit via the southern slope**, route description, key challenges, and required skills for climbers.

Nadmu Severn. Burzhukla 4338 n. Korocharka r. Boyus Bogos Sevo n. Burevestnik pik Peti r. Vkok Karaugomskoe plato

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Ascent to the summit of Burazhum (4462 m) via the Eastern edge, 4A category of complexity.

V. Burjula via Eastern Edge, 4A cat. diff.

R0–R2 100 m 35° 2 R2–R4 120 m 40° 3 R4–R6 100 m 40–45° 3 R6–R8 150 m 45–50° 4 R8 180 m 40° 3

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The ascent to the summit via the southern ridge is technically challenging, featuring rock climbing and a traverse across a snowy slope.

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Description of the ascent route to the summit of *Burdjula* via the East ridge and traverse of the rocky island.

The path from the sports camp in the Tsey district or from the village of Dzinaga to the initial bivouac on the middle plateau of the Western branch of the Karaugom plateau, under the Eastern slopes of the Burdzhul peak. From the initial bivouac (closed crevices) across the snowy fields of the plateau, then along the snowy slope to approach the Eastern edge of the Burdzhul peak between the Eastern ridge on the left and the Eastern buttress of the Northern ridge on the right (on the left and right above the Eastern edge are ice falls). From the plateau, having crossed the bergschrund on a snow bridge, ascend a steep snowy slope to the rocks of the Eastern edge. From here, 120 m upwards along steep rocks of medium difficulty ("live" stones, possible rockfall — piton belay) to a couloir. Then, along steep, simple and medium difficulty rocks of the couloir (rockfall — piton belay) 80–100 m straight up. Then exit the couloir to the right and ascend 120–150 m along steep, smooth rocks of above medium difficulty on the ridge (piton belay). Along simple and medium difficulty rocks of the ridge, ascend 150–180 m to a snowy-ice slope. From the plateau, 5–6 hours. From the ridge, traverse 150–180 m left-upwards along a steep snowy-ice slope (possible avalanches — piton belay) to a rocky outcrop. Then, along simple and medium difficulty rocks of the outcrop, reach its summit. Cairn. From the outcrop, traverse 60–80 m to the left (piton belay) along a steep snowy-ice slope, then along a snowy ridge crest, ascend to the summit

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Ascent to the summit of Burjula (4364 m) via the North ridge, category 3A, with a description of the path from the initial bivouac to the summit and back.

Burdzhula

The nodal summit of the Main ridge, Burdzhula (4364 m) stands out sharply against the background of the surrounding low peaks. It is located in the south-western corner of the Western branch of the Karaugom plateau, between the Anufrikov Peak to the east and Saualhayne to the north-west. At the end of the North ridge - a spur of Burdzhula stands a rocky tower of the Nogkau summit. 139. Burdzhula via the North ridge, Category III complexity (V. Lubenets, V. Radel, August 4, 1946) The path from the CSP of the Tsey district or from the village of Dzinaga (a group of 4-12 people) to the initial bivouac on the middle plateau of the Western branch of the Karaugom plateau, under the eastern slopes of Burdzhula, is described in route 83. From the initial bivouac, approach the first lower col on the left of the North ridge of Burdzhula

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