Шерхан, Южная

Description of the first ascent to the summit of Sherkhan-Yuzhny via the Northeast wall, category 5B difficulty, with a detailed analysis of the route and recommendations.

Ascent Passport Ascent class — technical. Region — Central Tien Shan, Terskey-Ala-Too ridge. Peak, its height and ascent route — Sherkhan Yuzhny, 4255 m, North-Eastern wall. Proposed difficulty category — 5B cat. diff. Route characteristics: height difference 700 m, average steepness 68°, length of sections: I — none, II — none, III — 15 m,

Traversing Sherkhan — Ondoo-Choku peaks in Terskey Ala-Too, category III, first ascent, route description, and technical characteristics.

Ascent Passport Class — technical. Region — Tashtambektor gorge, Terskey-Alatoo. Traverse of peaks: Severny Sherkhan — Tsentralny — Yuzhny Sherkhan (about 4220 m) — Ondouuchoku (about 4350 m) with ascent to Severny Sherkhan via the Eastern counterfort. Estimated difficulty category — 5B, first ascent. Characteristics: height difference — 650 m; average steepness — 55°; length of sections with 5th category difficulty — 325 m. Pitons hammered for belay: rock — 28 pcs., ice — 3 pcs., bolted — none. Departure date — August 1, return date — August 3, 1977. Number of climbing hours — 19, including 13 hours for the ascent via the Eastern counterfort. Number of nights: two on the moraine below the beginning of the counterfort.

Description of the traverse of the peaks Tashtambektor — Onduchoku — Perhan with ascent to Tashtambektor via the North face, made by a team in 1977, with a difficulty category of 5B.

169 Traverse Description Peak Tashtambektor — Onduuchoku — Sherkhan South — Sherkhan Central — Sherkhan North with ascent to Peak Tashtambektor via the North wall, accomplished by the MOS DSO "ZENIT" team July 27, 1977 – July 31, 1977 (approximately 5B category of complexity)www.alpfederation.ru Photo 1. Profile-detailed wall of Peak Tashtambektor | Date | Designation | Average steepness, in ° | Length, in m | Character of relief | Difficulty | Condition | Weather conditions | Rock | Ice | Sling | | :----------------- | :---------- | :---------------------- | :----------- | :---------------------------------------- | :--------- | :------------------------------------------ | :------------------------------ | :--- | :--- | :---- | | July 28, 1977 | R0–R1 | 35 | 80 | Ice slope | II | Slope is snow-covered | good | - | 2 | - |