Менделеевец
Route Description: СЗ гребню
Description of the first ascent of Mendeleevets peak (4200 m) in Tian-Shan via the western ridge, grade 4A, with a detailed route description and technical details.
Ascent Log
- Ascent classification — technical
- Ascent area — Tian-Shan, Terskey Ala-Too ridge, Ayuter gorge
- Peak, its height, and ascent route — Mt. Mendeleevets, 4200 m, 6B ridge
- Estimated difficulty category — 4A–3B
- Route characteristics: height difference — average slope 50°. Section lengths: R2 — 690 m, R3 — 350 m, R4 — 230 m, R5 — 65 m.
- Pitons hammered for belay:
- rock — 25
- ice —
- bolt —
Route Description: правому канту С стены
Description of the ascent route to Peak Mendeleevets (4200 m) via the north wall of the north ridge, difficulty category 5B.
Ascent Passport
- Ascent class — rock
- Ascent area — Tian-Shan, Terskey-Alatau ridge, Ayu-Tor gorge
- Peak: Mendeleyevec Peak 4200 m
- Difficulty category: 5B
- Route characteristics a) Elevation gain — 900 m b) Length of R5–R6 sections — 578 m c) Average steepness — 67°
- Pitons driven: 79
Route Description: правому канту С стены
Description of the ascent to Peak Mendeleevets via the north wall along the 5B category difficulty route, made in 1981.
Ascent Passport
- Ascent class: rock
- Ascent area: Terskey Ala-Too, Tian Shan
- Peak Mendeleevets, 4122, via the "triangle" of the North Face and North Ridge
- Proposed difficulty category: 5B.
- Route characteristics: height difference: 1400 m, length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — 490 m, average steepness of the wall 74°.
- Number of pitons hammered: rock 61, chocks 37, ice screws 3 (for descent); including 84 for belay and 14 for creating intermediate belay anchors.
- Number of climbing hours: 21.
- Number of bivouacs and their characteristics: one, semi-reclined.
- Team composition:
Route Description: левому канту треугольника С стены
Description of the 5B category climbing route to the Mendeleyeva Peak (4122 m) along the left edge of the northern wall triangle in the Terskey Ala-Too ridge, Tian Shan.
- Climbing category — rock climbing.
- Climbing area — Tian Shan, ridge — Teskey Ala-Too
- Peak, its height, climbing route: p. Mendeleevets, 4122 m, along the left edge of the northern wall triangle.
- Estimated category of difficulty — 5B.
- Route characteristics: height difference 1000 m (wall part 680 m), length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty — 375 m, average steepness of the wall — 70°.
- Number of pitons and placements used: for belay 164, for TSD — 38.
- Number of travel hours — 25 (including 21 on the wall).
Route Description: левому канту треугольника С стены
Description of a Category I complexity route to Mendeleevets Peak in Tian-Shan, complexity category 5B, completed by the Zenit Sports Society team in 16 hours.
Passport
- Rock class
- Tian-Shan, Ayuter gorge
- Peak Mendeleevets along the left edge of the Northern wall of the triangle
- 5B category of difficulty
- Height difference: 840 m, length with the summit ridge - 1300 m, length of sections 5–6 category of difficulty - 380 m. Average steepness of main sections 75° (3400–3950), of which 5 category of difficulty 82° (3600–3950).
- Pitons hammered:
- rock: 102
- bolt: 20
- chocks: –
Route Description: центру треугольника С стены
### Description of the First Ascent via the center of the triangle on the North Face of Mendeleyeva Peak (4122 m) in the Terskey Ala-Too range, Tian Shan, with a difficulty rating of 5B.
PASSPORT
- Climbing category — ROCK CLIMB
- Climbing area — Tian-Shan, Terskey Ala-Too ridge
- Peak, height, ascent route: MENDELEEVETS, 4122 m, via CENTER OF THE NORTH FACE TRIANGLE.
- Difficulty category — 5B (approximate). pr. 588, #6
- Route characteristics: the wall section of the route is 583 m long, height difference is 1000 m, length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category is 377 m, wall steepness — 68°
- Pitons used: rock pitons 122/11, chocks 50/4, bolt pitons 2/0
- Total climbing time — 20 hours, including 15 hours on the wall and 3 days.
- Number of bivouacs and their characteristics: one lying bivouac in a tent.
- Team composition: