Менделеевец

Peak4,122 m
SummitMateSSummitMate
November 15, 2024
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Description of the first ascent of Mendeleevets peak (4200 m) in Tian-Shan via the western ridge, grade 4A, with a detailed route description and technical details.

Ascent Log

  1. Ascent classification — technical
  2. Ascent area — Tian-Shan, Terskey Ala-Too ridge, Ayuter gorge
  3. Peak, its height, and ascent route — Mt. Mendeleevets, 4200 m, 6B ridge
  4. Estimated difficulty category — 4A–3B
  5. Route characteristics: height difference — average slope 50°. Section lengths: R2 — 690 m, R3 — 350 m, R4 — 230 m, R5 — 65 m.
  6. Pitons hammered for belay:
    • rock — 25
    • ice —
    • bolt —
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Description of the ascent route to Peak Mendeleevets (4200 m) via the north wall of the north ridge, difficulty category 5B.

Ascent Passport

  1. Ascent class — rock
  2. Ascent area — Tian-Shan, Terskey-Alatau ridge, Ayu-Tor gorge
  3. Peak: Mendeleyevec Peak 4200 m
  4. Difficulty category: 5B
  5. Route characteristics a) Elevation gain — 900 m b) Length of R5–R6 sections — 578 m c) Average steepness — 67°
  6. Pitons driven: 79
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Description of the ascent to Peak Mendeleevets via the north wall along the 5B category difficulty route, made in 1981.

Ascent Passport

  1. Ascent class: rock
  2. Ascent area: Terskey Ala-Too, Tian Shan
  3. Peak Mendeleevets, 4122, via the "triangle" of the North Face and North Ridge
  4. Proposed difficulty category: 5B.
  5. Route characteristics: height difference: 1400 m, length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — 490 m, average steepness of the wall 74°.
  6. Number of pitons hammered: rock 61, chocks 37, ice screws 3 (for descent); including 84 for belay and 14 for creating intermediate belay anchors.
  7. Number of climbing hours: 21.
  8. Number of bivouacs and their characteristics: one, semi-reclined.
  9. Team composition:
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Description of the 5B category climbing route to the Mendeleyeva Peak (4122 m) along the left edge of the northern wall triangle in the Terskey Ala-Too ridge, Tian Shan.

  1. Climbing category — rock climbing.
  2. Climbing area — Tian Shan, ridge — Teskey Ala-Too
  3. Peak, its height, climbing route: p. Mendeleevets, 4122 m, along the left edge of the northern wall triangle.
  4. Estimated category of difficulty — 5B.
  5. Route characteristics: height difference 1000 m (wall part 680 m), length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty — 375 m, average steepness of the wall — 70°.
  6. Number of pitons and placements used: for belay 164, for TSD — 38.
  7. Number of travel hours — 25 (including 21 on the wall).
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Description of a Category I complexity route to Mendeleevets Peak in Tian-Shan, complexity category 5B, completed by the Zenit Sports Society team in 16 hours.

Passport

  1. Rock class
  2. Tian-Shan, Ayuter gorge
  3. Peak Mendeleevets along the left edge of the Northern wall of the triangle
  4. 5B category of difficulty
  5. Height difference: 840 m, length with the summit ridge - 1300 m, length of sections 5–6 category of difficulty - 380 m. Average steepness of main sections 75° (3400–3950), of which 5 category of difficulty 82° (3600–3950).
  6. Pitons hammered:
    • rock: 102
    • bolt: 20
    • chocks: –
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### Description of the First Ascent via the center of the triangle on the North Face of Mendeleyeva Peak (4122 m) in the Terskey Ala-Too range, Tian Shan, with a difficulty rating of 5B.

PASSPORT

  1. Climbing category — ROCK CLIMB
  2. Climbing area — Tian-Shan, Terskey Ala-Too ridge
  3. Peak, height, ascent route: MENDELEEVETS, 4122 m, via CENTER OF THE NORTH FACE TRIANGLE.
  4. Difficulty category — 5B (approximate). pr. 588, #6
  5. Route characteristics: the wall section of the route is 583 m long, height difference is 1000 m, length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category is 377 m, wall steepness — 68°
  6. Pitons used: rock pitons 122/11, chocks 50/4, bolt pitons 2/0
  7. Total climbing time — 20 hours, including 15 hours on the wall and 3 days.
  8. Number of bivouacs and their characteristics: one lying bivouac in a tent.
  9. Team composition:
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