2. Climbing area, ridge ­— C ­— 8 Tian-Shan Talas Ridge
3. Peak, its height, ascent route ­— Dvoeglazy, 4355 m NW ridge
4. Estimated category of difficulty ­— 2B
5. Route characteristics: height difference, length of section 1­–5 km, average slope in degrees ­— height difference 1300 m, avg. slope 40°, length of sections: Cat. I complexity ­— 800 m
   Cat. II complexity ­— 300 m
6. Placement of pitons for insurance to create artificial anchor points:

ASCENT PASSPORT

1. Ascent class — technical
2. Ascent area, ridge — Western Tian-Shan, Tanassky ridge.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route — p. Dzholoy, 4355 m, via the North counterfort of the North-Eastern ridge.
4. Presumed difficulty category — 3B category.
5. Route characteristics: height difference, length of section I–5, average steepness in degrees. 800 m, 950 m, II–III — 150 m, III — 800 m.
6. Pitons driven for protection to create artificial holds: Rock — 5 Ice — Bolt —

4135

Joloe Peak (East), 4355 m

via the north central ridge, cat. 4A (from camp on Joloe Glacier 3560 m) From the 3560 m bivouac located on the left side of Joloe Glacier, ascend via moraine (snow-covered depending on the season) to the north-central ridge lying to the right of the northern buttress. The ascent to the start of the route is via a snow-ice slope with a slope angle of 35–40° and a length of 120 m, to the left of the lower third of a monolithic rocky triangle. The route follows the left (as seen from below) edge of the triangle; climbing grade 3–4. Belays are alternating, via projections; use protection gear and pitons. The section is 130–140 m long. This is followed by a small snow-covered rocky ledge 3–4 m wide, after which there is

• a 35-meter rocky wall with a slope angle of 75–80°, leading to a rocky "window" and the ridge. Belays are via pitons and protection gear. Climbing is difficult. This is the first crux. The ascent continues along the ridge:
• Belays are alternating until a snow-covered ledge; the ridge is degraded, rocks are grade 2–3.
• Ahead lies a large gendarme, which is ascended head-on via a cleft and then a chimney; the height is 10 m, climbing is difficult, challenging.

2. Nearby ascents, ridge — Western Tian-Shan, Talassky ridge.
3. Summit, its height, ascent route — p. Dvopoy 4355 m, via the north central edge. 35 km
4. Estimated difficulty category — 4° cat. diff.
5. Route characteristics: height difference, section length 1–6 km, average steepness in degrees — 600 m, 11–400 m, 11–17 — 190 m, 17 — 130 m, 17–7 — 65 m, 45°–50°.
6. Number of loops hammered in for insurance to create artificial support points.
   • Rock — 12
   • Ice — 5
   • Hook anchors —

ASCENT PASSPORT

1. Climbing type: rock
2. Ascent area, ridge: S-3 Tian-Shan, Talassky ridge
3. Peak, its height, ascent route: DJOLOY ZAPADNY (WESTERN) via the northern glacier slope
4. Estimated difficulty category: 4A
5. Route characteristics: height difference 630 m length of sections 5–6 difficulty category average steepness 50°
6. Pitons hammered: for insurance rock — ice — 42 bolted — for creating and organizing emergency stops rock — ice — bolted —
7. Number of travel hours: 6