Report

On the ascent of the team of climbers of the Novosibirsk regional council of the SDSO "Burevestnik" to the peak Choktal (1st Eastern) via the North wall (approximately 5-6 cat. diff.)

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1. Characteristics of the region and the object of ascent.

The North wall of the 1st Eastern peak of the Choktal massif was chosen as the object of ascent by the team of the Novosibirsk "Burevestnik" for participation in the CS championship in 1965. The Choktal massif is located in the ridge of the North Tian-Shan, Kungay-Alatau, and is its most elevated part. The main peak of the massif - 1st Eastern - has a height of 4770 m. The northern slopes of the massif limit the wide valley of the Chon-Kemin river, along which a good road is laid, allowing easy access to the Choktal area. (The Chon-Kemin valley is a place of intensive sheep farming, which explains the presence of a good road and a large number of passing vehicles.) The nearest settlement - Novorossiika village - is located 35 km downstream. The journey from Frunze by car takes 12-15 hours. The area is characterized by unstable weather, which is apparently due to the proximity of Issyk-Kul. For example, during the ascent, out of 9 days:

70 Kungey Ala-Too Range Northern Tien Shan

Choktal Massif 2nd Eastern Peak

• 4771 m
• Choktal Massif
• Category 3B difficulty Description compiled by: Kholodniak A.M. General information about the climbing area: the Choktal massif is the highest point of the Kungey Ala-Too range in the Northern Tien Shan. Being far from major alpine camps, the area is rarely visited by climbers. The first attempts to explore this area date back to 1937, when three alpine instructors climbed the 2nd Western peak via the Eastern ridge. The second attempt was made in 1950, when a DSO "LOKOMOTIV" expedition led by Chekmarev visited the Choktal area. The participants of this expedition conquered:
• the 2nd Eastern peak via the Western ridge;

Kungey Ala-Too Range

Northern Tian Shan

Choktal Massif

Peak 2nd Zapadnaya (West) 4771 m. Route 4A cat. diff. From glacier 2 V. Dzhindyku and then along the E. ridge Description compiled by Kholodniak A.M.

To the Chairman of the Presidium of the Alpinism Federation of the Kirghiz SSR

Comrade Smirnov Yu.N. From the participants of the traverse of the "Choktal" massif Comrades Buryak V.N., Aksenov V.A., Lengnik O.M.

Petition

In 1962, a sports group led by Naumenko I.M. completed a traverse of the "Choktal" massif, category 5B. The group followed the route with some deviations from the original route due to the lack of a complete and detailed description. In connection with this, the group made independent decisions on the choice of path in certain sections of the traverse. The group members removed notes from all the peaks of the massif and control tours. In the group's opinion, the deviations made from the classified route do not affect its category of difficulty. When reviewing the group's traverse, the commission (chaired by Rotataev N.S.) proposed that we compile a detailed description of the route taken and consider it at the Presidium of the Alpinism Federation of the Kirghiz SSR. In this regard, the group petitions for the classification of the route taken and consideration of the traverse results. October 20, 1962.